Aladdin H50 self bleeding valve?

[Ant1]

Hi everyone,

I have a radiator which requires bleeding every single day, the daily bleeding last for around 7 seconds therefore I assume that quite a lot of air is entering the system. So far I have been unable to pinpoint where the air could come from. I re-tighten the nut of each radiator lower valve (when the system is not running and cold) but did not make any difference.

This radiator was installed last summer by my plumber but only noticed the issue when I started using the CH during the winter, therefore I guess I always had the problem. A few other radiators were also installed but those do not need bleeding. The affected radiator has been installed on the wall at least 2 inches higher than the other radiators, therefore I think the air could come from anywhere in my system and gather at the highest point, i.e. the top of this radiator.

I am thinking about installing an Aladdin H50 self bleeding valve but would like your technical opinion first. Do you think that kind of valve would be suited for this issue? Or should I really get the root cause sorted (i.e should I find where the air is coming from)?

PS: this is a gravity fed system.

Thanks for your comments,
Ant

 

[D_Hailsham]

I am thinking about installing an Aladdin H50 self bleeding valve but would like your technical opinion first. Do you think that kind of valve would be suited for this issue? Or should I really get the root cause sorted (i.e should I find where the air is coming from)?

Find the cause; if it's the plumber's fault, get him to rectify the problem - without charge.

Can you trace the new pipework back to where it joins the old? If so what sort of connectors did your plumber use - soldered, compression or push fit. It could be something a simple as a bad joint or a nut not tightened enough.

 

[Ant1]

Thanks for your feedback.

I think I have spotted the leak; after putting some toilet paper around the pipe which connects to the lockshield (of another radiator, not the one having air in it), the toilet paper got dump and water was gathering on the floor. I guess that the water was originally running along the pipe at a very slow rate and going underneath the floorboards.

I retighten the nut twice already but still some water going through (but only when the central heating is on). I added some PTFE tape around the olive and retighten the lockshield nut again and it seems a bit better, but not completely solved. I do not think I managed to put the PFTE tape properly around the olive due to the water coming from the pipe, so I will drain my system over the weekend and try again.

Is it ok to put PFTE around an olive? Or should I put it on the lockshield thread instead?


To answer your question, the new pipework has been soldered to the old pipework. Actually there is a soldered joint one inch below the "leaking" lockshield, so I will reapply some lead solder on that joint as the leak might come from there instead.

 

[D_Hailsham]

PTFE tape should not be necessary. If the olive is not sealing properly, it is better to remove the olive and replace with a new one. Clean the pipe with sand paper before fitting the olive.

If the olive is working, there is no need for PTFE on the LS thread.

Actually there is a soldered joint one inch below the "leaking" lockshield, so I will reapply some lead solder on that joint as the leak might come from there instead.

Doubt it as water does not travel up-hill!

If you don't want the bother of draining down (new inhibitor, airlocks etc), get a pair of DrainEasy plugs from your local B&Q or plumbers merchant. Use them to block the feed and vent in your F/E tank - assuming you do not have a sealed system.

 

[Ant1]

Thanks again D_Hailsham for your advise, much appreciated. Will replace the olive at the weekend.