Alpha CB28

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You need to read the small print and scroll down to read about all the different types.

I have several air operated impact wrenches but for on site boilers just use the simple hammer driven type with an adapter from the 1/2" square to 1/4" hex drive bits so that I can interface with anything.

That tool has the advantage that the impact of the hammer not also provides the torque but also pressures the bit into the screw head.

Tony
 
No Tony we don't need to read small print, you need to stop wriggling and admit you made a slip!
The rotational torque is not an issue! The problem is purely in keeping the bit in the screw!

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Impact_driver

I'm never wrong.
I thought I was once, but I wasn't, I was right. ;)
 
I can remember when you wrong and mixed up Boyles and Charles Gas Laws!

When pointed out, you replied that they were just two men prancing about in panty hose!

Tony
 
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you a chance of getting the diaphragm out in "10 minutes" next time and becoming a service agent hero like paul barker.

:D :D :D :D

Mod thank you so much for inserting commas etc.

My laptop keyboard has no k no space no comma no left shift. it's a pita.

i have to copy k and paste it just keep banging space miss out commas and use right upper case when i remember.

Geting the answer to a querstion acurate is secondary.
 
you a chance of getting the diaphragm out in "10 minutes" next time and becoming a service agent hero like paul barker.

:D :D :D :D

Mod thank you so much for inserting commas etc.

My laptop keyboard has no k no space no comma no left shift. it's a pita.

i have to copy k and paste it just keep banging space miss out commas and use right upper case when i remember.

Geting the answer to a querstion acurate is secondary.

say what now? :confused:
 
Dear all,

Thanks for your advice and tips.

Paul - sorry I have not been clear. The screws are associated with the fitting between the inlet manifold and the diverter valve assembly. The nut I cannot shift is the one facing the out front of the diverter valve. The whole job would certainly be a 10 minute job for an alpha technician as they may have to do this repair often. The seal kit is I ordered is a diaphragm replacement kit (has HEX, diverter and O-ring seals for the fitting) which I think is the one you refer too.

Nickso - do you have a suggested drill bit size for the lower screw? I am a little conerned that I may knacker the thread on the inlet manifold, propagating the problem further...so any tips would be much appreciated.

Thanks
 
Well at school the boys were often found laughingwith great hillarity in the changing rooms having found my satchel reading my essays.

Now i don't give h 1 t wot you think of my spelling.

i don'tconsider this aplace where itmatters.

anywhere it does matter i avoid.

That nut will come undone

those grubscrews have to be approached in first instance with exact fit perfectcondition screwdriver with massesof push and a tiny bitpf turn. Something people under 50 seem incapable of grasping. You get one attempt you replace with new screw out of kit for nexttime. Should some twit have butchered them you use a hacksawbladetomake a slot and get one more go.

asnicso says remove moreparts in the final analysis.

Regard to seals i used to just unpac all my littlesweety bags ofseals into tubs and had available every seal for every job always. no idea what they were.

the mostprecious items are the redorings and the grub screws there are always too many of the rest. Except 1" pump nut fibre washers.
 
Dear all,

Thanks for your advice and tips.

Paul - sorry I have not been clear. The screws are associated with the fitting between the inlet manifold and the diverter valve assembly. The nut I cannot shift is the one facing the out front of the diverter valve. The whole job would certainly be a 10 minute job for an alpha technician as they may have to do this repair often. The seal kit is I ordered is a diaphragm replacement kit (has HEX, diverter and O-ring seals for the fitting) which I think is the one you refer too.

Nickso - do you have a suggested drill bit size for the lower screw? I am a little conerned that I may knacker the thread on the inlet manifold, propagating the problem further...so any tips would be much appreciated.

Thanks

drilling it out is the last resort, as paul says using the correct screwdriver and pushing hard to turn it may get it going after a few hours in wd40. ive never found the hacksaw method particularly sucessful but it has worked on the odd occasion. look at the new screws for a suitable drill size, i cant remember what i used last time as i now carry a full manifold instead.

if the nut facing out doesnt come off i smack the spanner with a hammer....overkill perhaps but it works.
 
Now i don't give h 1 t wot you think of my spelling.

i don'tconsider this aplace where itmatters.

anywhere it does matter i avoid.

strange then why you feel the need to take the **** out of my laziness at using punctuation and the shift key.
 
Yes - I succumbed to the hammer on spanner to shift the union.

I have now had to remove the inlet manifold from the unit so I can work on the two screws, first with the hacksaw method, then drill, and if that doesn't work a new manifold.

After that I'll put it all back together I will have my own mini-Trevi fountain on display....

Thanks for everyone's help so far.
 
After that I'll put it all back together I will have my own mini-Trevi fountain on display....

.

:LOL:

you maybe dont know how true that is.

its a poor design and these boilers leak for fun, a shame really as they are quite reliable otherwise.
 
Screws eventually yielded to 24 hours in 3-in-1 penetrating oil and two goes with a hacksaw.

All sealing faces cleaned and washers and O-rings renewed using seal kits. Everything put back together and tightened up. Job done. One week of use and no obvious sign of leakage. :eek:

Thanks for everyone's input into this problem. Much appreciated.
 

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