An electric wall heater

[conny]

@Jupiter01 it may help if you also say how high your ceiling is from the floor. Whether the room is fully furnished or sparsely furnished. Are there any draughts around the doors/windows. Do you have double glazing/heavy curtains. Is the floor tiled/carpeted/bare boards/bare concrete. Is it a ground floor room or top of the house, (in which case does it have a cellar if ground or good loft insulation if top of the house).

Nobody can give you full advice on what type/size of heater without knowing all the details, (or at least as many as possible).

 

[RandomGrinch]

It just may not feel the same...

Yes, thanks. That was what I was trying to get at, with the human fallibility part
Perhaps it would be different, if we were all as perfect as Winston

 

[DetlefSchmitz]

if we were all as perfect as Winston

I pray I never reach that state...

 

[ericmark]

I have thought about how to reduce energy on heating, and I think a seat out of my car is likely one of the best options.

The car seat is heated, and so heats the body direct, but not seen a seat for a home with built in heaters.

Hhowever the high backed chair was designed to stop drafts, and the old radiant heater be it electric or a coal fire facing a person in a chair can keep them warm even when air temperature is low.

@winston1 is correct unless using a heat pump, 1 Kw is 1 Kw does not matter what type of heater, and air temperature will not change does not matter what type, but to keep the body warm even the insulation on the chair will make a diffrence.

 

[SUNRAY]

if we were all as perfect as Winston

We'd be in a right old mess

 

[Why Not Indeed]

The car seat is heated, and so heats the body direct, but not seen a seat for a home with built in heaters.

I got a single heated blanket from Lidl for £20 to sit on. Three settings that draw 44, 25 or 12W. Once up temperature I drop it down to the 25W setting and it's comfortable. Yeah, it slides off the chair and needs pulling back into place a few times a week. Haven't worked out a way round that yet. Anything I can think of will involve either puncturing it or stretching it.
I am not sure how long it's going to last as it is necessarily folded and it cautions against doing so in the instructions.
Doesn't keep my feet warm, got some USB-powered insoles [£7] coming which should see to that!

 

[Jupiter01]

Let's assume that Jupiter1 actually used the word 'effective', which is what he really means. Now maybe you can give a useful answer.

May be its the wrong term and as you suggest, I should be using "effective" instead.

I was merely thinking that if you take a passage of an hour - in relatively cold conditions - the thermostat heater will use less energy and maintain 21 degrees in the room (assuming that is what it is set to) in comparison to one that does not have a thermostat. Yes, I understand that 100% of the energy is converted to heat but can the above scenario not be described as energy efficiency?

 

[Jupiter01]

@Jupiter01 it may help if you also say how high your ceiling is from the floor. Whether the room is fully furnished or sparsely furnished. Are there any draughts around the doors/windows. Do you have double glazing/heavy curtains. Is the floor tiled/carpeted/bare boards/bare concrete. Is it a ground floor room or top of the house, (in which case does it have a cellar if ground or good loft insulation if top of the house).

Nobody can give you full advice on what type/size of heater without knowing all the details, (or at least as many as possible).

The room is in the loft so it benefits from rising heat from the lower floors. It's also furnished and carpeted. It has single double glazed window with a curtain. The loft has the fibre insulation.

Appreciate your help.

 

[winston1]

May be its the wrong term and as you suggest, I should be using "effective" instead.

Indeed.

I was merely thinking that if you take a passage of an hour - in relatively cold conditions - the thermostat heater will use less energy and maintain 21 degrees in the room (assuming that is what it is set to) in comparison to one that does not have a thermostat.

One without a thermostat could overheat the room if you don’t turn it off when it is warm enough.

Yes, I understand that 100% of the energy is converted to heat but can the above scenario not be described as energy efficiency?

No. Efficiency is the ratio of energy out over energy in times 100%.

 

[conny]

The room is in the loft so it benefits from rising heat from the lower floors. It's also furnished and carpeted. It has single double glazed window with a curtain. The loft has the fibre insulation.

Appreciate your help.

I presume there is no insulation under the floor of the loft room?
If here is then this will prevent heat from below rising to help warm the loft room.
In a case like this the insulation should be above the ceiling of the loft room. If you have any under the flooring it needs to be removed.

 

[Jupiter01]

I presume there is no insulation under the floor of the loft room?
If here is then this will prevent heat from below rising to help warm the loft room.
In a case like this the insulation should be above the ceiling of the loft room. If you have any under the flooring it needs to be removed.

I don't know of any insulation between the floors and the loft is insulated.

 

[Jupiter01]

Is the following correct guys:

- 2 x 3kw heaters draw approximately 26 amp in total. That is my design current.
- This requires a 32 amp breaker in CU I think... Slightly hesitant with this as each radial leg will be carrying 13 amp.
- This will have two radials feeding a 13 amp FCU for each wall heater
- Each leg of the radial will use a 2.5mm (can probably go 1.5mm too) Twin and Earth cable as this has a maximum capacity of 23 amps. This will be installed along the surface using trunking. Ref method b*.

I suspect that the FCU provides additional protection.

I don't do this often and would appreciate your validation of this please.
Thanks in advance.

 

[flameport]

If you want a 32A radial, then it's 4mm cable as a minimum.
Theoretically a 32A circuit in 2.5mm supplying a single 13A FCU does comply, but it's not a good design.

However one room does not require 6kW of heating. Whole houses are heated with less.
A single 20A radial circuit with 2x 2kW heaters should be more than plenty. Probably even less such as 2x 1kW.

If it really does need 6kW of heating, you should look at adding more insulation, otherwise you are just paying vast sums to throw heat away to the outside.

 

[danechip]

I got a single heated blanket from Lidl for £20 to sit on. Three settings that draw 44, 25 or 12W. Once up temperature I drop it down to the 25W setting and it's comfortable. Yeah, it slides off the chair and needs pulling back into place a few times a week. Haven't worked out a way round that yet. Anything I can think of will involve either puncturing it or stretching it.
I am not sure how long it's going to last as it is necessarily folded and it cautions against doing so in the instructions.
Doesn't keep my feet warm, got some USB-powered insoles [£7] coming which should see to that!

A can of that spray carpet adhesive lol. Maybe velcro at a push. The 2" wide strip.