Another WF541 lights flashing problem

[Blinkydamo]

Hi all,

For a while now when I turn the machine on all the lights on the front flash rapidly. I have check the filter/pump behind the kick plate on the base of the front of the machine and its empty. I have just finished removing the pump front the machine and replaced it knowing there is nothing blocking the pump, pipes or anything else.

I have check to input pipe and found that to be ok and the waste pipe has been washed out and isn't blocked. I have found a list of the error codes on this website but there isn't code for all the lights flashing.

Could someone shed some light on this and tell me what I need to do to solve it.

Cheers in advance all

Damian

 

[cakeman]

pcb kapputt

 

[Blinkydamo]

Cheers for the reply cake man, could you tell me which of the pcb's is dead, the one at the back of the machine or the one at the front behind the buttons.

I now dont have all the lights flashing, but instead I have 1 & 4 flashing with the power/on light flashing fast. I have rung Hotpoint and they want £100 to send an engineer out to fix this, does that sound about right or is it cheaper to fix it myself.

Also could someone please tell me of a site that sells cheap spares for the aquarius WF541G??

Cheers again

Damian

 

[cakeman]

if hotpoint replace the pcb then its ok but there are some places you can get a replacement part just need to spend a little time searching
i heard somewhere that a pcb cannot be changed from another machine as it will need reprogramming, i think this is dubious info but somebody will be along to put me right soon hopefully.

 

[rocks1]

http://www.emwelec.co.uk/ for exchange pcb should slot straight in its the rear pcb at fault .make sure you tell them what model it is diferant pcbs for many mcs .

 

[gtrance]

Hi,

I have this same problem on my hotpoint wf541. When we turn it on, All the lights flash for 30 seconds or so.

Is this the PCB is knackered as mentioned above? We have used the machine once since this and it has worked.

What exactly is a PCB and how easy is it for a complete amateur like me to replace it if I order one from the website that Rocks1 has suggested? Or should an amateur leave it to a professional?

Thanks in advance

Greg

 

[rocks1]

U any good with a soldering iron. Read the sticky at the top and all you need is a c17 cap. Cost pennies from maplins. Pcb found at the back in the corner with a white cover over it.

 

[gtrance]

Thanks for the fast response.

I have just been down to my local appliance repair place and explained the problem to them. They said if the washing machine is washing, spinning and draining without any issue, then replacing the module is not worth the expense.

Would you agree with this. The machine is working perfectly otherwise. Might we be able to just wait half a minute for the lights to stop flashing then wash as normal (which we have done once) or are we risking damaging the machine permanantely?

 

[gtrance]

Okay, I've read the sticky and thread about replacing the c17 cap.

Forgive me but I'm not 100% sure what cap I need for my machine. I've searched in maplin "c17 cap" and "VH50E - PC Elect 1000uf 16V" (mentioned in the sticky thread, and neither bring up any exact matches.

 

[rocks1]

HAVE A READ OF THIS THREAD

Ii was a bit difficult to get the board out but much easier to get it back in.

I replaced the c17 cap with another from maplins. it was not the same as the one already in the board and maplins did not have teh same one - so I had read in another thread here that different capacitors have been used from 1000 micro farad 10v to 800 micro farad 35v

Well the one I got was 1000 micro farad 16v, it works and last night managed to get a load of washing done

Thanks for all the advice, thought now I had got the washine machione working again maybe I should try that LCD monitor I have lying around thats blown, different kettle of fish neadless to say it is still lying in bits lol

 

[gtrance]

Hi,

The washing machine has stopped altogether now. The lights flash constantly until I turn it off at the plug.

So I've bought a soldering iron and the capacitor from Maplin.

Before I pull the machine out (which is very difficult and blocks the kitchen completely), is there anything else I need? I'm hoping once I take out the pcb, it will all become clear, having read the stickies.

Am I applying the soldering iron directly to the capacitor once I have inserted it. Or do I need something else to solder onto the capacitor?

Forgive me for the daft questions!!

 

[rocks1]

Nothing else just desolder the old one and fit new one

 

[gtrance]

Thanks for the reply.

A bit more googling and it appears I will need a desoldering wick to desolder the old cap?

Is there a way to desolder the cap off without a wick? Otherwise I'll have to order a roll off ebay and wait a few more days.

 

[rocks1]

Heat the solder up and pull out old cap and slot new one in make sure solder is hot.

 

[TonyKen]

Thanks to whoever found the solution to replace the C17 capacitor. Not the greatest at soldering, but found the C17 which was clearly marked on the PCB and simply levered it out with a small screwdriver and soldered the replacement back. The most difficult task was locating the PCB which on my machine was on the bottom LHS looking from the back of the machine (after removing the inspection plate). I had assumed from earlier posts that it was the RHS and got very confused as there was nothing there!
Didn't follow the advice to photograph wiring before removing PCB connections, but as all the connections could only plug back into the correct socket/connectors, it would have been virtually impossible to get it wrong.
Pleasantly surprised when I switched the machine back on that everything worked like new (my soldering skills not as bad as I feared). No more Chrismas Tree Lights! Thanks again and I'd recommend this solution to anyone getting the same problem.