are these tile battens ok

[datarebal]

the corner cut on the eave course can be a tile side ways, knock the nib off and cut to size.
first tile each side will need nothing cut off the bottom but an amount of the top depending on how it works. in fact these can work out the same all the way up depending on roof pitch.

 

[johns1999]

yep understood thanks for that

 

[noseall]

We tend to let the hips dictate the bond and (as Datarebal said) keep the cuts the same all the way up.

We also work from the hips into the middle then use tile'n'halfs where the two meet, if necessary

And ALWAYS keep your hips central. Never be tempted to shift them one way or the other to try and suit a tile.

 

[johns1999]

We tend to let the hips dictate the bond and (as Datarebal said) keep the cuts the same all the way up.

We also work from the hips into the middle then use tile'n'halfs where the two meet, if necessary

And ALWAYS keep your hips central. Never be tempted to shift them one way or the other to try and suit a tile.

thats very helpful cheers, i'm going to have a crack at it at the weekend, so will start again, thanks for all the help.

 

[johns1999]

hi

i relaid the hip tiles and laid them to your advice and there much better now, ive been mortaring them in as i go and haven't done a bad job i don't think (until you lot see it lol) i'kll post some pics later on. the only smallish cut i've had was because a tile and a half wasn't quite big enough on one row is that ok? it sits on top of a tile and half though and they start getting bigger again after that.

the other thing i was going to ask, i'm assuming i use a mitred, cut down tile and a half for the eaves course in the valley as well where the two roofs meet? should i put a bit of lead under the first few rows of valleys or is that not nessarcary?

any advice appreciated.

 

[noseall]

the other thing i was going to ask, i'm assuming i use a mitred, cut down tile and a half for the eaves course in the valley as well where the two roofs meet?

Correct. No need for lead as the cut is covered by the first hip. Whatever is sitting proud of the hip tile is sitting over the gutter.

You need to consider the bond of the first full tiles directly above the eaves, when setting out the eaves and that very first mitre cut. It is to make sure you allow your eaves course to be dictated to by the bond above and not the other way around.

We set ours out dry first.

 

[johns1999]

hi noseall it was the valley i was talking about the lead but im assuming the same applies with the motred cut eaves tiles covered by a valley tile?

 

[noseall]

I'm more wary of a valley than of a hip in terms of water ingress. Plus you don't want any unnecessary kick from any bulky eaves putting the first course out of kilter - height wise. Have a play with a 450mm x 450mm lead soaker at the bottom and see how it works.

Datarebal will be better informed than me in terms of diverse experience.

 

[johns1999]

cheers for that!

 

[datarebal]

Belt and braces but not essential, a lead soaker under the first valley, that timber needs all the help it can get due to concentrated water gushing down the valley and dripping under and off the valley tile. Hip no need as Noseall says..

 

[johns1999]

lovely thank you.

one thing i was going to ask you guys, i know you're meant to have an eaves tile at the top of the roof as a last tile under the ridge. but because i was matching the guage of existing battens on adjoing roof, the very top batten sits at the very top edge of the ridge with 100mm guage like the rest of them, so i have no room for an eaves tile. will that be ok as its at the very tip of the ridge or should i put a batten between these two and maybe use 2 rows of eaves tiles?

 

[datarebal]

Hook the eave over the top of the tile on the top course, try it and see if it works both sides with out the two eaves causing issues with each other. If so there is a trick but ill save that.
No eaves / top tile = no headlap = leak unless you have very wide ridge.

 

[johns1999]

Hook the eave over the top of the tile on the top course, try it and see if it works both sides with out the two eaves causing issues with each other. If so there is a trick but ill save that.
No eaves / top tile = no headlap = leak unless you have very wide ridge.

that sounds like a plan i'll give it a go. i'm no where near the ridge yet, just planning ahead. i'll let you know whem i get there. thanks again!

 

[datarebal]

pictures...

 

[johns1999]

hi

theres room to fit another batten above the current top one but the batten will be virtually resting on the nibs of the top full tile. see first photo

http://imgur.com/jjqRX9p


which seems to give me enough headlap i think? see second photo

http://imgur.com/o1cy70m


but if i do that the nibs of the top eaves tile wont hook over the very top batten. is that ok? see third photo

http://imgur.com/lq4z27k


that might not leave me enough room for a ridge batten does that matter? i'm mortaring the ridges on and have stanless screws for mechanical fixing can i just screw straight into the ridge?