Balancing sheet required for ply?

[hoyboy]

Hi,

I hope someone can help as just working on a new project and a bit lost!

I'm making some large ply wardrobes and wondered if I should be worried about the ply warping. It would be made from Grade BB 18mm pre-lacquered birch ply.

I'm mostly concerned about the doors as I'd like to add a laminate finish to the front (probably factory supplied). The question is, do I need a balancing sheet too - I.e. should I laminate the back? Obviously, I'd like to avoid this due to costs if possible but I'm worried they'll warp. The largest doors are about 0.5m x 1.5m.

Lastly, is there anything I need to worry about with laminate as never really used it before? I'm wondering if the edges need bevelling to help avoid chipping etc? Or is there anything else I need to know!? Any info would be useful!

Thanks in advance!

 

[foxhole]

Seem and expensive way to make doors, you could have them ready made-to-measure from a kitchen/bedroom supplier for a lot less time/effort and expense.Personally would not use ply for such a project.You would need a large well equipped workshop for such a project.

 

[stevethejoiner]

We use laminate a lot, but always balance on the back, and usually on MDF as it's more stable than ply.
And laminating is not for the feint hearted. You only get one chance with contact adhesives and you cannot apply laminate with any other glue.
Because you cannot move or slide the cut laminate into position with contact adhesive, it sticks where it first touches, you have to oversize it, and trim off the edge excess after its glued down.
We have a Festool K 700 EQ-Plus Laminate Trimmer trimmer for that job, but you could use a router with a guide bearing cutter.

But as Foxhole say's, it's an expensive way to make doors and very costly if you get it wrong.

 

[Deleted member 174758]

As Steve says MDF is a far better choice as a substrate - flatter, cheaper, etc. Also as stated by others a balancer is almost always needed. About the only time you don't add a balancer is when you are laminating onto a board which is fixed to a much larger frame, e.g. a shop counter front or similar.

Laminate can be trimmed by using a bearing template trimmer, like these, but that still leaves you with a razor sharp edge which is prone to chipping. It is normal to add some form of edge banding to doors, such as PVC or ABS edging tape, a matching laminate strip or hardwood lipping (the latter available from B&Q, etc) which also need to be flush trimmed. In the case of laminate edging the edges need to be carefully backed off with a fine file to remove chisel edges

 

[stevethejoiner]

As JobandKnock says there are rare occasions when a balancer is not required.
We just made these mirrored desks with gloss black laminate fronts and walnut veneered tops. The black cured desk fronts were made the same way as an aircraft wing, so they were very very strong and would not move out of shape so we did not bother to balance the backs.

Untitled

• stevethejoiner
• 15 Dec 2011
• 1

 

[Deluks]

Veneered MDF is what you really need. Although if you already have the ply, you could buy thinner 7mm sheets and glue them on. Roll of edging and an edge trimmer and you're good to go.

See local timber merchants, failing that try SL Hardwoods website. Or ebay seller hardwoodsales

 

[Deleted member 174758]

Nice job, Steve!

 

[hoyboy]

Thanks! All very useful!