Bathroom Extractor - Refuse to Reconnect?

[Clitheroe]

Good Evening Everybody

When I went to look at one the other week, I found that the L + N were fed from the lighting circuit but switched L directly from the shower switch! (Electricity Board job!!!).

The fan looks to me as though it has had it but someone has suggested to try cleaning the thread with sandpaper etc is this correct?. However whether this is the case or not I have told the owner that I am not going to reconnect this or any new fan back as it is. Silly question but am I right about this?

Also can a mains operated 230v fan IPX4 go on the wall above a shower? as is currently the case.

Thanks Everyone.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

The fan looks to me as though it has had it but someone has suggested to try cleaning the thread with sandpaper etc is this correct?.

Thread?

However whether this is the case or not I have told the owner that I am not going to reconnect this or any new fan back as it is. Silly question but am I right about this?

Sounds perfectly reasonable.

Also can a mains operated 230v fan IPX4 go on the wall above a shower? as is currently the case.

Does the maker say it may?

When I went to look at one the other week,

They'll have got someone else in by now..

 

[Clitheroe]

Thread?

OK then, shaft, whatever you want to call it

Does the maker say it may?

I will have to look for a suitable fan if replacement is necessary, but I don't want to get one, open the packaging and find it cannot be installed in that location. No instructions for the present fan installed 15-20 years ago.

They'll have got someone else in by now..

I initially said that the fan has had it which I think is the case but someone else they knew gave the suggestion. I just said I will go back again if they want, which they have said fine but are in no rush.

This is for a (OAP) friend of my mothers so personally would like it if the fan could be just done without really considering the cost of a new fan, rcd protection, isolating switch etc.

Regards

 

[ban-all-sheds]

I will have to look for a suitable fan if replacement is necessary, but I don't want to get one, open the packaging and find it cannot be installed in that location.

If it doesn't say on the outside then open it up before buying it.

This is for a (OAP) friend of my mothers so personally would like it if the fan could be just done without really considering the cost of a new fan, rcd protection, isolating switch etc.

It can.

You're right about not connecting the switched live direct to the shower supply, but you don't have to retro-fit an RCD etc.

 

[TicklyT]

If you did fit an RCD, the chances are the switched live feed to the fan would probably trip it.
Is there any protection for the switched live other than the shower fuse / breaker?

Maybe the motor bearings have seized, but stripping down the fan, cleaning up the shaft and replacing or reloading the bearings with oil would be time consuming, with no guarantee of results. OK for a DIYer with time to spend on it, but a replacement fan is probably cheaper than your time.

 

[flameport]

The easiest option is:
1. Remove old fan
2. Disconnect the switched live from the shower circuit
3. Fit a new fan with a built in pull cord switch like this one:
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/17122...-Fans/Manrose-Axial-20W-Pullcord-Bathroom-Fan

 

[Clitheroe]

Good Morning Everybody

Thank you very much for your help.

If it doesn't say on the outside then open it up before buying it.

???

It can.
You're right about not connecting the switched live direct to the shower supply, but you don't have to retro-fit an RCD etc.

Ok. I was more thinking that the instructions supplied with a new fan might suggest it etc.

Is there any protection for the switched live other than the shower fuse / breaker?

No, this is the problem. It is a single core 1.5mm cable coming from the load side of the shower switch-shower supplied from 35 amp cartridge fuse.

2. Disconnect the switched live from the shower circuit
3. Fit a new fan with a built in pull cord switch

Great idea. I was just thinking though wouldn't some form of independent isolation still be required e.g switched FCU?

Cheers

 

[ban-all-sheds]

???

You said "I will have to look for a suitable fan if replacement is necessary, but I don't want to get one, open the packaging and find it cannot be installed in that location".

I said "If it doesn't say on the outside then open it up before buying it"

I meant if it doesn't say on the outside of the packaging.

Ok. I was more thinking that the instructions supplied with a new fan might suggest it etc.

And I wasn't thinking about that, just the debate around the 17th requirements for bathroom circuits to be RCD protected, and whether you have to retro-fit RCDs to existing circuits, or only new ones.

No, this is the problem. It is a single core 1.5mm cable coming from the load side of the shower switch-shower supplied from 35 amp cartridge fuse.

So you shouldn't reconnect that.

Great idea. I was just thinking though wouldn't some form of independent isolation still be required e.g switched FCU?

Why can't it just go on the lighting circuit as is so commonly done, despite the drawbacks? A 3-pole fan isolator and some 3C+E won't be outrageously expensive....

 

[Clitheroe]

Clitheroe wrote:
???

You said "I will have to look for a suitable fan if replacement is necessary, but I don't want to get one, open the packaging and find it cannot be installed in that location".

I said "If it doesn't say on the outside then open it up before buying it"

I meant if it doesn't say on the outside of the packaging.

What I am saying is I cannot very well go into a shop and open up the sealed packaging of something I haven't paid for.

And I wasn't thinking about that, just the debate around the 17th requirements for bathroom circuits to be RCD protected, and whether you have to retro-fit RCDs to existing circuits, or only new ones.

Fair enough

So you shouldn't reconnect that.

I know that!

Why can't it just go on the lighting circuit as is so commonly done, despite the drawbacks? A 3-pole fan isolator and some 3C+E won't be outrageously expensive....

I never said it couldn't. I am just considering all the options available since the type of wiring depends on the type of fan i.e. if the fan has a built in timer or whether it is a standard fan.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

What I am saying is I cannot very well go into a shop and open up the sealed packaging of something I haven't paid for.

F***-em - of course you can - I do it all the time.

I refuse to buy anything if I can't see the actual product properly, and how well it is made.

Anything I'm going to hold in my hand, be it a tool, or a potato peeler, or a pen, or whatever, I refuse to buy it unless I can actually hold it in my hand first.

When I buy things in Ikea I ignore their request not to open the packaging, and I will continue to do so until they can give me an absolute guarantee that there will never be anything wrong, broken or missing.

Even if I know what I'm buying, and have no need to check the product characteristics I will never take it as read that what's in the box is what should be, and that nothing is wrong, broken or missing.

If a supermarket has run out of some particular loose produce, and only have it pre-bagged at a higher price, or the pack has more than I want to buy, I'll open it up and put the contents into a bag as I would if the loose stuff was still there.

F***-em.

 

[wingcoax]

BAS You and me should go shopping together. i always let the store know what i think of their pricing and packaging.