Bathroom

[tel3563]

Hi guys, have been trolling through the faq's but am still a little uncertain of what i need to do, I live in a bungalow so no floors to take up, all the walls are timber stud and have no plasterboard on at the moment.
Need to move a shaver socket from one side of bathroom to other, how?, what cable, what junction box, I'm pretty sure its on a ring main as there are 2 cables coming down from the ceiling
Need new supply to a mirror/light, feed off?? how? cable size, junction box size
Need to replace the pulley cord with a switch outside the bathroom, how?,
Need to fit a fan & fan isolator, how? cable size, junction box??
Need to earth bond cold supply to toilet, basin taps, towel rad and bath taps, what do I earth them too??
I'm a very competent DIYer but electrics ain't my strongest skill!!!!!
Cheers

 

[marcam]

Right depends how the lights have been wired in your house, either two plate or three plate, most likly to be 3. What you will have to do for your light switch on the outside is, using a 4plate 15A JB you will have to take a switchline from that JB to where the light switch is going to go. I can tell to the connections once i know how many cables there are at the pull switch.

Earth Bonding: - Take a 6mm earth wire from the light switch and using earth clamps, bond all the pipes, in the bathroom, without cutting it.

With the fan you need a 3core 1.5mm cable from the light switch to the fan, connections will be: - Brown - permenant live, which will go into the common on the switch
Black, which will most likly be the switch line which will go into L1
Grey will be the neutral so use blue sleeving!!#

Your mirrow light, you need another 1.5mm twin and earth cable from the light switch to where the mirror is going, and it should be either cased into the wall in plastic conduit, or again through your timber studs.

The light switch you will need will be a Double gang light switch, 1 way!!

Hope this helps you make a start any way, any probs i wil try and help.
These connections will differ depending on the extractor fan

With the shaver socket, use a 32A JB join the two 2.5mm cables togetehr, red to red, black to black etc, however introduce another 2.5mm, so all in all you will have 3 x 2.5mm cables in the JB, then the other end run it through ur timber studs.

 

[ColJack]

PART P... PART P... PART P....

work in a bathroom involving the installation of new fixed wiring is notifiable under part P of the building regulations..

see the wiki for info on part P...

since you don't have your location narrowed down in your profile it had to be said... sorry...

you need to contact the LABC before you start work. You pay a fee and they come and look at your first fix before you plaster the walls, then again when you have plastered when they should also test your installation for you..

or you could get a registered sparky and save all the hassle of notification etc..

 

[Richard C]

PART P... PART P... PART P....

work in a bathroom involving the installation of new fixed wiring is notifiable under part P of the building regulations..

see the wiki for info on part P...

Yup

 

[Taylortwocities]

Tel, get someone in. With respect, from your questions you dont have the skills to get past first base when the local authority do their inspection.

For example, I'm pretty sure your shaver point is not on a ring main, the two wires are from a lighting circuit, one is the feed in from a light fitting and the other will be feeding out to another light.

BTW, you do not earth the items in a bathroom, its called supplementary equipotential bonding - there's stuff about this in the WIKI.

As a PS to Marcam, whats your logic re not cutting the bonding conductor?
Unbroken conductor only applies to main bonding where one conductor is used to bond, say, gas and water services from the MET.
And PPS, why specify 6mm? That's over the top, 4mm is fine.