Thanks for that mate and will pass on your info to the engineer who is coming round tomorrow.Dont want to turn anything on just incase the electrics have got water in them.Will hopefully post with a positive outcome which i can share.
BAXI 105HE CONDENSING BOILER
- Thread starter drewBOY
- Start date
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Hi, The condensation traps on these boilers are a real pain! The plastic connections tend to crack and leak causing a host of other problems. The outside exterier drain pipe can freeze up if not insulated, causing the condensation trap to overflow. What error signal do you get from the LED panel??
Was this fixed? What was it? My Baxi 105HE, is needing an almost daily top up and my condensate pipe (NOT PRV) seems to be dripping more than it probably should. I sure with a daily top-up that I would have noticed by now if I had a leak under the floorboards.
The boiler will lose pressure even when not in use. I don't suspect a failed Expansion Vessel either as the boiler has been losing pressure and requiring top-up for well over 18mnths (it's just that it's gone from a fortnightly/weekly top-up to a daily top-up lately, to maintain 1 bar of pressure at idle). I understand that a failed Expansion vessel will eventually fill up with water and then the system will overpressurise? There is no evidence that the boiler ever over-pressurises (never above 2.5 bar in operation) and the PRV is bone dry.
From a Google, sounds like it could be a leak on one of the Heat Exchangers? Sounds expensive. I already had to have the Secondary Heat Exchanger cleaned in acid as scale was causing water to backup and enter the heating system when running hot water (but not before the diverter Valve was changed unneccessarily first! Again...Expensive)
Any checks I can make myself? I have had a cursory look inside and nothing seems wet, although the clear plastic perspex box that the condensate pipe goes into is green and algae-y.
The boiler will lose pressure even when not in use. I don't suspect a failed Expansion Vessel either as the boiler has been losing pressure and requiring top-up for well over 18mnths (it's just that it's gone from a fortnightly/weekly top-up to a daily top-up lately, to maintain 1 bar of pressure at idle). I understand that a failed Expansion vessel will eventually fill up with water and then the system will overpressurise? There is no evidence that the boiler ever over-pressurises (never above 2.5 bar in operation) and the PRV is bone dry.
From a Google, sounds like it could be a leak on one of the Heat Exchangers? Sounds expensive. I already had to have the Secondary Heat Exchanger cleaned in acid as scale was causing water to backup and enter the heating system when running hot water (but not before the diverter Valve was changed unneccessarily first! Again...Expensive)
Any checks I can make myself? I have had a cursory look inside and nothing seems wet, although the clear plastic perspex box that the condensate pipe goes into is green and algae-y.
You need to read this thread and it says exactly what you need to do to check where its leaking from!
Start saving up as it would be an expensive repair. Or call Baxi for a fixed price repair as that may be cheaper!
Tony
Start saving up as it would be an expensive repair. Or call Baxi for a fixed price repair as that may be cheaper!
Tony
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How do you isolate the heating system from the boiler in order to rule that out?
Thanks. Do you mean this section?
//www.diynot.com/wiki/plumbing:faq
Couldn't find anything directly relating to my query... am I being dumb?
left to right
HTG 22mm
DHW out 15mm
Gas 22mm
CW inlet 15mm
HTG 22mm
valves are chrome and either have plastic isolators or square chrome isolators
Isolate both heating valves with the boiler at 1.5 bar. If it still goes down leak is on boiler
HTG 22mm
DHW out 15mm
Gas 22mm
CW inlet 15mm
HTG 22mm
valves are chrome and either have plastic isolators or square chrome isolators
Isolate both heating valves with the boiler at 1.5 bar. If it still goes down leak is on boiler
Brill, thanks a lot. Just to clarify, once isolated, is it important at all to ensure that the Thermostat doesn't try to kick in the heating? Or will it simply just fail to do so without any damage to the boiler?
pressurise boiler to 1.5bar, turn it off (power) then far left and far right black isolators quarter turn to isolate the heating circuit.
If the pressure doesn't drop over the usual period the leak is on the heating system. If it does it's the boiler.
If the pressure doesn't drop over the usual period the leak is on the heating system. If it does it's the boiler.
Well, I did this, and sure enough, over around 7 hours later, the pressure had lost half a bar. Knowing it wasn't the Heating System (so have returned valves to original position) and knowing it wasn't the PRV (bone dry), I decided to put a container under the Condensate outlet. Then I pressurised to just over 1 Bar, went to bed. Boiler was active for a lot of the night seeing as it's been sub zero temperatures. In the morning, I had collected 400ml of water from the Condensate pipe (no, it hadn't rained!) and lost about half a bar of pressure.
So seems conclusive? The boiler has an internal leak of some sort which is allowing water destined for the Heating Circuit to find it's way out of the Condensate pipe? Common causes for that?
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