Baxi 80E - pressurisation problem

[drdimmer]

I'm renting a property with some friends, the boiler in the house is a Baxi 80E. On the top floor the radiatiors required bleeding (hot at bottom, cold at top), after having done so we checked the pressure on the meter and saw it was only 0.5 bar when the boilers running (0.7 when off). So i jumped onto google to look up how to do it, and found out about the filling loop. I came across this thread:
//www.diynot.com/forums/viewto...start=15&sid=0ec9d3af2588f5bc64b4553134031532

Which describes the same problems I'm having, and similarly I have no third tap on mine. Having obtained a copy of the boilers manual
http://theinitiativegroup.org.uk/fscinitiativedatabase/Baxi/BaxiCombi80e105e.pdf
Looking at page 11 fig 4a, (you might need to zoom), all the switches heating flow, cold water inlet and heating return are what I thought was the on position, if your facing the switch, the switch is parallel to the direction of the flexi tube which would suggest the valve is open. Are all three suppose to be like this? I presume the filling loop isn't operating as the valve switch which is suppose to be there isn't, instead something else is holding it closed.

To cut a long post short, how can i pressurise the system given these problems - (sorry for it being so long but wanted to give as much detail as possible).

 

[JLMGas]

The filling loop will be outwith the boiler, these don't have a built in loop.

Looks like this

Try under the units or in the pipebox (if there is one)

I SHOULD be reasonably close to the boiler.

If you can't find it contact your landlord who an responsible for repairs to their heating system.

 

[drdimmer]

I can see the filling loop, it has two connections with valve taps where it is connected to the boiler but it doesn't have the tap on the filling loop as in the image above.

 

[JLMGas]

I can see the filling loop, it has two connections with valve taps where it is connected to the boiler but it doesn't have the tap on the filling loop as in the image above.

Some filling loops are screw type where you need a screwdriver to open it, or it could be your handle has snapped of by previous tenants.

You'd need a pair o pliers to open it if thats the case!

 

[drdimmer]

there is a flat head screw where the tap should be, could i unscrew that instead then tighten it once the required pressure is reached?

Edit: cheers, ill try that, thanks for all your advice. How long should the boiler be off for by i try pressurising the boiler?

 

[JLMGas]

there is a flat head screw where the tap should be, could i unscrew that instead then tighten it once the required pressure is reached?

Edit: cheers, ill try that, thanks for all your advice. How long should the boiler be off for by i try pressurising the boiler?

One side of the filling loop is a non return valve, the screw in the middle is a test screw to make sure non return valve is working, DO NOT touch this screw part.

http://www.hpwarehouse.co.uk/straight-braided-combi-filling-loop-629-p.asp#

On the picture the non return on the 2nd pic (click to enlarge) is on the right.
The non return valve will be fitted to the CH pipework.

 

[drdimmer]

Of the three images on the site in the link above, the one on the far right, (which is on the left hand side of the loop in the original image), is that safe to turn to pressurise? That being the screw which is closest to the cold water inlet.

Would the best method be to turn the tap on the far right (heating return) to closed, turn the screw on the filling loop and control the flow of water using the tap on the heating return as it's easier to control than an awkwardly placed screw! Then once desired pressure is reached, turn the screw to the closed position and open up the heating return tap again on the other end of the filling loop.

 

[JLMGas]

Of the three images on the site in the link above, the one on the far right, (which is on the left hand side of the loop in the original image), is that safe to turn to pressurise? That being the screw which is closest to the cold water inlet.

Would the best method be to turn the tap on the far right (heating return) to closed, turn the screw on the filling loop and control the flow of water using the tap on the heating return as it's easier to control than an awkwardly placed screw! Then once desired pressure is reached, turn the screw to the closed position and open up the heating return tap again on the other end of the filling loop.

Only one of the valves open (to let the main pressure into the system), the other "screw" on the non return will have no effect, its simply a test screw point and does not control the water going into the system.

 

[JLMGas]

On your other point the pressure should stay in the system, if it drops you have a leak somewhere!