when i turn the tap on no hot water no fire up no pump no fan, however if i open a second tap ignition and alls well . any help appreciated
baxi 80e
- Thread starter brightspark20032002
- Start date
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Hi all,
Then your first tap is knackered then...
Then your first tap is knackered then...
it doesnt really matter which tap i turn on but 2 have to be on this is ittermittent as its coming on with 1 tap at the moment.
the kitchen sink is the last tap on the line and this is the main problem as i have to run upstairs to turn the sink tap on so the boiler will fire up, i can then turn it off and the boiler continues to run on 1 tap. if i put the shower on i turn the sink on for the boiler to fire up then its ok once its fired i can turn the sink off and it runs ok. SAme with the bathroom sink i turn the shower on and off then its ok. If i have the central heating and the hw it works ok.
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the problem was the domestic hot water diaphragm. pin holed. The diaphragm cost £8.50 from local boiler supplies. Heres how i did it. Turn off the 3 water valves ( cold supply, central heating in and out.)at the bottom of the boiler. switch off electrical supply. slacken the 2 screws that hold the control panel to the boiler. undo the 2 screws that hold the front panel on top front of the boiler.(thats if they werent already missing as fitters and gas engineers tend not to put them back.) push the front panel up and remove from boiler. undo fully the screws holding the control panel. lift and turn the top of the control panel towards you. may need a good wiggle. let the panel hang down. left of centre you see a hexagonal brass fitting with a micro switch attached.( at this point it may be wise to turn everything back on water and electric reset the boiler by turning the first switch on the panel fully anti clockwise and hold for 2 secs or more set hot water and open a tap. if the microswitch is not being activated by the steel rod coming out of the hexagonal face plate after10 secs then its the diaphragm) turn every thing back off. undo the single screw holding the micro switch to the hexagonal housing and tuck the switch up out of the way. Slacken 2 of the 6 screws diagonally opposite each other and remove the other 4. apply pressure to the hexagon face plate and remove the last 2 screws carefully as there is a spring under pressure behind.If the face plate is not loose with the slackened screws place a piece of wood at the side of the face plate and firm tap with screw driver handle. now you need to take note of how things come apart. the spring is up against the face plate. a steel rod passes through this and exits through the face plate. this activates the micro switch. on the other end of the rod is a plastic end which sits at the base of the spring. pull these away and you are left with a plastic disc with the rubber diaphragm behind it. extract the plastic disc which has a rod attached to it that passes through the diaphragm. take off the old diaphragm and inspect for holes. gently clean the diaphragm seats with a piece of green nylon pan scrubber. do the fitting and the face plate. place the plastic disc rod through the diaphragm. put in place feed ing the rod through the hole at the back of the fitting. the next bit is a little tricky, but not difficult. place the spring with its rod on the face plate offer it up to the fitting and compress the spring until the rod come through the hole in the face plate . line up the holes and have 2 screws ready. get 2 screws in a couple of turns each them you can release your pressure on the face plate. replace the rest of the screws and nip them all up do not go round in a circle when tightening but do opposites. replace the micro switch. put the control panel back being careful not to trap and nip any wires put the 2 screws in but do not tighten. turn the valves and the electric back on. turn the first dial on the left all the way over to the left ie anti clock wise to reset the boiler hold for 2 secs or more. set dial to dhw( tap sign and open a hw tap. you may get a little growling and spitting as the system purges the air. but you should now have hot water.replace front panel. 
Well I could have told you what was wrong if only you had described the problem properly!
You implied that no water was coming out of your hot tap! That is a blockage in the tap etc.
What you should have said is that you need a lot of flow to make the boiler respond!
Tony
I never said no water i said no hot water and aint it so easy to diagnose a fault when some one has done it for you lol
I can diagnose heating faults very well on my own thanks!
Just look at some of my previous replies.
You said "no ( hot ) water"
If you want anyone to help diagnose something you need to describe exactly and unambiguously!
e.g. So NOT on a Radiant electric heater, "heater not working but live supply terminal lights my neon tester!"
Just look at some of my previous replies.
You said "no ( hot ) water"
If you want anyone to help diagnose something you need to describe exactly and unambiguously!
e.g. So NOT on a Radiant electric heater, "heater not working but live supply terminal lights my neon tester!"
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