Beam Installation

[SteveOSling]

Hi folks,

I'm in the middle of building a hole in wall fireplace. All is going well but whilst thinking ahead I'm slightly concerned about how I'm going to install a timber beam. Picture below to help people understand what I'm on about.

I've successfully put in a concrete lintel, packed it out and plastered over the front.

Ideally my girlfriend would like an oak beam over it measuring around 200mm high, 75mm deep and 1000mm long. So quite heavy.....

Originally I was thinking to fix it with resin studs. My concern is however that above the lintel is very, very hard bricks and natural stone so I think drilling into these will be a nightmare.

I don't have the best of drills (struggled with drilling masonry for picture rails) so is it a case of hiring a good SDS one and buying some good diamond drill bits? Any recommendations or tips?

Was thinking of these studs (3No. into beam/walling (I won't need the nut obviously)):
http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Scr...+Stud+Passivated+M12+x+160mm/d90/sd970/p93878

OR

Can I just glue the beam with timber batten holding it until it goes off? How strong is gripfill etc. nowadays? Recommendations?

Anyone know how good this stuff is?:
http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Adh...ve/Sticks+Like+290ml+Clear/d180/sd3199/p98810

Thanks in advance for any advice, thoughts and opinions.

P.S. In hindsight I would have ordered a massive timber beam that actually functioned as a lintel as well as looking nice; but such is life......

 

[dann09]

The timber must be mechanically fixed - not glued.
Locate your bed courses and drill and plug them if the brick is too hard.

















Check the gov building regs for proximity of wood lintels etc. to an open solid fuel fire and flue. Check the same regs, or research on here, the front hearth dimensions for a solid fuel fire.

There's, perhaps, also the matters of sweeping and smoke testing the flue(s), and checking the terminal arrangements.

 

[SteveOSling]

Thanks. I'll look to fix to the bed joints.
You think 3no. m12 160mm studs secured with resin are enough? I heard to make the hole 2mm bigger so a 14mm in masonry. Was thinking a 12mm hole in timber though for snug fit. Any recommendations?

Thanks for the BREG advice. I'm aware it won't comply for an open fire. We're only putting in an electric log burner. I've already insulated and ventilated the flue above.

 

[^woody^]

For the best results you should hack off the plaster and fix the beam to the bare wall and then re-plaster up to the beam. This will then look like its in the wall and on stuck on the front

You only need screws long enough to get a 50mm fixing in the wall, or m6 or m8 bolts

Also get hold of a cheap plug cutter and cut some plugs out of the back of the timber which match the grain on the front. Then recess the fixings and plug the holes and blend the plug in

But if you want complete concealed fixing, then you would screw a smaller timber to the wall and then recess the back of the beam (router) so that it slots on to the wall timber, and fix with glue

 

[pred]

I think you may have to resite that DG socket also, but ask a sparky for advice.

 

[SteveOSling]

I think you may have to resite that DG socket also, but ask a sparky for advice.

Even for just an electric log burner?

I took a good look at the flue and decided the pointing is way too soft and in general poor condition to be suitable for an open fire. I have blocked off the flue with insulation complete with vent.

In short no combustible appliance of any description will be installed/used in this fireplace. It's mock only.

My girlfriend would love a woodburning stove but this is too expensive for us and IMO far too dangerous to attempt in a DIY capacity - even with Building Control in attendance. If we had the money we would pursue this option via a HETAS engineer only. I believe there were 10 deaths last year in Plymouth through CO poisoning attributable to fireplaces/woodburners!!

Many thanks for all the advice received. It is helpful and appreciated.