Best brand of RCD sockets

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I want to change a couple of sockets in the kitchen utility room which are feeding the washing machine with an RCD one as the consumer unit is a 6 way Wylex which obviously won't take RCBOs.

I gather these sockets are a bit unfashionable as most people will just change the CU which is not a feasible or legal DIY option.

I am looking into two sockets, one by Power Breaker which are just under £30, or one by Safety Sure which is a bit cheaper at £17. I can't find many reviews on them other than that both are made/imported/whatever by Greenbrook.

The more expensive one is switched and looks more subtle, but are there any other differences? Are these sockets suitable to be wired into a 2.5mm ring? I can't seem to find out how big the terminals are. There will be no spur so only the two 2.5mm cables will be wired into each terminal.

The MK ones are sadly out of budget.
 
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I want to change a couple of sockets in the kitchen utility room which are feeding the washing machine with an RCD one as the consumer unit is a 6 way Wylex which obviously won't take RCBOs.
Are you sure it wont?
I gather these sockets are a bit unfashionable as most people will just change the CU which is not a feasible or legal DIY option.
They are not the prettiest of things, and there is no law saying a DIYer can not change a consumer unit, providing they have the ability and go down the correct path with building controls
The more expensive one is switched and looks more subtle, but are there any other differences? Are these sockets suitable to be wired into a 2.5mm ring? I can't seem to find out how big the terminals are. There will be no spur so only the two 2.5mm cables will be wired into each terminal.

The MK ones are sadly out of budget.

You will have no problems terminating the cables.
Now knowing you desire this type of sockets, I guess as a safety precaution, may I ask you how you intend to prove they function correctly?
 
Hi, I would use MK as they are not too ugly in a domestic situation. BG are also OK to look at and a fair bit cheaper.

Kind regards,

DS
 
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It maybe best just to leave it as it is.

FItting a cheap brand could make things worse.

FItting a expensive brand xmany is silly.

Can't think of much of an advantage, unless sockets are used to power garden tools.
 
By 6 way Wylex, I presume you mean an old board with plug in rewirable or cartridge fuses (or retro fitted plug in MCBs)? The type of board virtually every house built between 1960 and 1990 seemed to get issued with!

If it's one of those it probably could do with replacing anyway.

Probably a waste of time fitting RCDs sockets, as it's likely you have concealed wiring which still won't be RCD protected.

Best option is get a pro to replace the consumer unit.

It shouldn't cost a fortune to do, but unfortunately some electricians see it as a great money making, money for old rope, con.

Get someone who is sensible to recommend a good electrician, if you don't know any.
 
One snag with the powerbreaker one is you have to switch both outlets off together.
Smiths do one with a switch for each outlet and reduces wear and tear on the trip\reset mechanism.
However its still advisable to test frequently.
Also be aware that some are non latching and need resetting after power failure which may be undesirable
 
Also be aware that some are non latching and need resetting after power failure which may be undesirable
Like MK one. I couldn't believe it.
Don't forget that RCD sockets were probably introduced at a time when RCD protection was only required for sockets likely to be used for supplying outdoor power/gardening equipment (mowers, strimmers, hedge cutters etc.) and that, for such purposes, an 'active' RCD is arguably desirable, for safety reasons.

Kind Regards, John
 
To start with lets list the options faults and advantages.

1) Although this should not be the case it is never the less true that some RCD sockets actually produce an earth leakage some all the time and some when the test button is pressed so often when fitting RCD protection at the fuse box, distribution unit or consumer unit any existing RCD FCU or sockets need removing. I had a 10mA MK fitted at work and pressing the test button would take out the 100mA one in main board. So as a temporary measure not much good.

2) One of the major problems in fitting an RCD at point of use is the volt drop under fault conditions can mean there is not enough voltage for them to work. The cure is to have an active type which will fail with either excessive volt drop or earth leakage so it will fail safe. However lost of supply after a power cut is not always a good idea.

3) To fit a passive type RCD first the supply needs checking to ensure under fault conditions the RCD will still operate. Some use both the neutral and earth to supply the electronics of the RCD which means they produce an earth leakage. So before fitting very careful measurement need to be made.

4) The RCD can be rendered inoperative by some thing as simple as strain on the cables so after fitting all RCD's need testing. At 40 ms using a stop watch is clearly not an option it needs a special RCD tester.

5) Where the earth is adequate a MCB will trip nearly as fast as a RCD. It is only where the earth is not up to scratch when an RCD comes into it's own.

6) A RCD will not stop one getting a shock it only limits the time you will get the shock for.

So before and after fitting a RCD expensive meters are required to ensure it works as expected. As a result it is not really a DIY job. Where there is a high risk and one has not got the money I accept that a DIY RCD may be better than nothing but using a plug in type there is less chance of any cables causing strain on the unit so in general a simple plug in type would be both cheaper and better than swapping a socket.

So other than complying with regulations which in the main the DIY guy can't do anyway as he does not have the test gear a simple plug in RCD is cheaper and does a better job. The only advantage with a RCD built into a socket is you can get passive versions but since you can't test you would not want to fit a passive version.

So if your worried by a simple plug in RCD.
 
3) To fit a passive type RCD first the supply needs checking to ensure under fault conditions the RCD will still operate. ... So before fitting very careful measurement need to be made.
What sort of 'checks and measurements' did you have in mind?
5) Where the earth is adequate a MCB will trip nearly as fast as a RCD. It is only where the earth is not up to scratch when an RCD comes into it's own.
In response to a negligible-impedance L-E fault, yes, but RCDs are (other than in TT installations) usually employed for totally different reasons (reducing the duration of potentially lethal electric shocks), which will never cause an MCB to operate.
So before and after fitting a RCD expensive meters are required to ensure it works as expected. As a result it is not really a DIY job.
Strictly true, but, to put this in perspective, most houses now have (passive) RCDs and once they have been fitted and initially tested, the house owner without 'expensive meters' has no way of ensuring that they continue to 'work as expected', beyond pressing the test button (which is only a very crude and limited test).
So other than complying with regulations which in the main the DIY guy can't do anyway as he does not have the test gear a simple plug in RCD is cheaper and does a better job.
I'm not sure that the fact that its a plug-in RCD alters the fact that, strictly speaking, it should be tested (with 'expensive meters') to make sure that it 'works as expected' - so I'm not sure that the difference is actually as great as you are implying. There's obviously nothing magic about a plug-in RCD, as compared with a hard-wired one, that makes it any more immune to faults and failures.

Kind Regards, John
 

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