Boarding a Cellar.

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Hi guys,

New here, please be gentle haha!

Turning a Double width cellar into an office, The L shape external walls are very slighty damp, so im going to build a new set of studs and just board the stud, However theres 2 walls on the other L shape that are not damp at all.

What would best way to board these? bearing in mind there is a possiblity that the damp may track around, (Doubt it but suppose anythings possible!)

Didnt want to dab these on, then in 6 months them fall off. Any suggestions? Think its ok to dab?

Please no suggestions to Bond or sand and cement these up :)

Thank you very much in advance.
 
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Hi John,

Its a tricky situation, Ill try and explain and hopefully you can advise?

Its a LEASED 2 windowed shop front showroom on a main street, Ive got an office in one side and a showroom on the other, Realised i need more offices and hoping to you the cellar as a ( Temporary ? ) Solution.

With the property being on a lease, i dont want to spend excseeive amounts of cash getting rid of the damp / Dehumidifier / Tanking it?

And was hoping setting a stud wall in from the external walls ( 2 air gap? Trying to avoid briging the gap! )

The walls are very messy atm - Not in means of damp just different layers of OLD plaster etc, and i couldnt expect to stick my guys down there in the state its in!

Anything you can suggest would be brill.
 
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cellars are usually damp so you can't just cover the walls up, or your lining will eventually be pushed off by an enormous fungus.

You can line the walls with waterproof lathing and let the water drip down behind it, collecting it from gutters round the edge of the floor and taking it away into a drain or using a pump.

You might be able to have a well-ventilated space behind your lining, with lots and lots of airbricks to the outside world to try to take the moisture away. Generally, although you try to reduce water ingress in underground structures, it is now generally accepted that you have to expect it to get in somehow, so you have to provide a way of dealing with it at minimum inconvenience.

Your lining needs to be made of materials that will not be damaged by prolongued exposure to damp.

I have never had to do it myself so will stop now.
 
Thanks for the reply sir,

Dont suppose there's actually a quick fix then lol! :cry:

If i wasnt to create the stud and was to chip the plaster off the walls, would there be someway of sealing it to make it look half decent? Ie paintable or something?

Not sure what im expecting! But if there was some method of sealing it, without tanking then i could just spray the lot?

Hmm :confused:

Thanks again!
 
What we have done in the past (On the advice of structrual engineers) was to hack all the plaster and muck off the offending walls and rake out the joints and erect stud work 2" -3" in front of it and leave the wall to "breath". I must add that these were 20" stone walls that had been studded out with non treated timber and had "plugs" into the wall attached to the stud work with no gap between wall and stud. You must also make sure that the floor is sound as this will be pulling up moisture,Put your studwork on a dpc membrain and silicon in the fixing holes.....You must use treated timber and foil back plaster board if you use this method...Good Luck...and keep your boards off the floor....Also put air-vents in the boards to get an air-flow..
 
Thanks for the reply Roy, abit more promising / feesable for what i need i think.

Will let you know how i get on!

Cheers
 
I hasten to add we had quite a large area to "play" with and used 4"x2" stud work you could of course reduce this down if you are pushed for space.. ;)
 
think it would also be wise to paint some black jack on wall first will defo help and not hinder the damp
 
think it would also be wise to paint some black jack on wall first will defo help and not hinder the damp

The reason to hack off and leave "as is" is to let the wall "Breath" and with an air-flow it shouldn't have too much of a problem with the damp.

PS I have never heard of "Black Jack" was he a professional boxer???

Sorry Mucka couldn't resist that ;)
 
the black might get pushed off the wall by water and efflorescence :(

an impervious coating is normally applied to the wet side.
 
I remember my dad using "black Jack " on his hand once to "draw" a splinter out, do any of you remember "that" sort of Black Jack or am I just am old bugger :LOL: ?

I bet Roughcaster remembers it ;)
 

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