Hi, Hope someone can help me out, i have a potterton suprema boiler and had a recon circuit board fitted in January, but 6 wks later it started locking out, it is ok once i re-set the re-set button but keeps on locking out up to 5 times a day now, i had same plumber back and he changed the heatsensors on the pipework, this seemed to work but two days later it started locking out again, i know there is a problem with these circuit boards but one thing that i noticed is that my hot water gets very hot, even with both thermostats on cylinder turned down to 60. Now the plumber has not returned my calls all week, but i have noticed a lot of blogs regarding these circuit boards or could it be a thermostat problem
BOILER LOCKING OUT
- Thread starter mart40
- Start date
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It's probably the board, many of the recon artists just resolder the joints and hope for the best. Or they just mend the first fault they find, leaving old tired damaged relays and whatnot on the board.
They usually can't test anything either, so if your boiler is overheating the safety circuits may well not be working.
If when the boiler has locked out the PUMP is stilll running, then it's probaby an oveheat issue rather than the board.
If after it's locked out and cooled you can't immediately reset it, then it's probably the board.
Also, "Plumbers" of the type who shouldn't be fiddling with boilers cos they don't know what they're doing, often leave a suprima likely to overheat.
A workaround, rather than a solution, might be to just turn the boiler stat knob down a bit.
They usually can't test anything either, so if your boiler is overheating the safety circuits may well not be working.
If when the boiler has locked out the PUMP is stilll running, then it's probaby an oveheat issue rather than the board.
If after it's locked out and cooled you can't immediately reset it, then it's probably the board.
Also, "Plumbers" of the type who shouldn't be fiddling with boilers cos they don't know what they're doing, often leave a suprima likely to overheat.
A workaround, rather than a solution, might be to just turn the boiler stat knob down a bit.
Thanks,
Know what you mean with regards some Plumbers, just think it's a shame a few bad uns give others a bad name. I still have a nagging doubt that its the thermostat but its probably more than a coincidence that the problem only started a few weeks after the re-con board was fitted. Might go and get a new thermostat 2mo and give that a go as its the cheapest option first. The boiler does seem worse for cutting out when temp is set lower, and think the pump does run after its locked out
Know what you mean with regards some Plumbers, just think it's a shame a few bad uns give others a bad name. I still have a nagging doubt that its the thermostat but its probably more than a coincidence that the problem only started a few weeks after the re-con board was fitted. Might go and get a new thermostat 2mo and give that a go as its the cheapest option first. The boiler does seem worse for cutting out when temp is set lower, and think the pump does run after its locked out
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Had a look at the thermostats on boiler both the one under the plastic cover at the top and the one located on the side are set at 60' when i turned the one on the side up the diverter kicked in and the boiler fired up when i presume means it is working fine, turned it back down to 60 yet the water coming out the taps is boiling hot and you cannot hold your hand under it at all, is this right? Not sure how to check the wiring on the pump. The boiler was working fine all afternoon/evening/night, but when i turned the hallway temp control thermostat down from 19' to about 15' this morning it went into lockout again.
Hi. Best start from scratch i reckon, exactly what are the lights doing when in lockout? (i assume you have two, green and red) their flash sequence will tell you roughly what's causing the lockout. Usually either overheat or ignition lockout. Has this already been confirmed? Also, as has already been said, correct wiring is important on this boiler and there is a modified board available due to known problems with the old one.
The red light is flashing when it goes into lockout. The boiler came on today at 2pm, but as i was going out i turned the heating down to 15' when i got back it had locked out again, i hit the re-set button and it went to green then straight off again to red flashing, turned the temp up to 19' and turned the temp knob on boiler off and back on to about 3/4 of its max hit the re-set button and it fired back up and has been fine since about 4ish now.
does it flash at a rate of once per second? or faster? what is the green light doing when the red one is flashing?
How did you choose that fellow?
Was it his decision to fit a recon PCB or yours? What did you think about that?
The PCBs are really repaired and not reconditioned as chris has explained. The general standard of the repairs is often quite poor. Since they dont have proper test facilities they could be unsafe too.
As you presumably know by now, there is a modified and more reliable PCB available although it costs about £175.
Tony
Plumber was from a local plumbing spares shop that my dad went into.
Original fault was caused by diverter jamming and this burnt part of the board , was shown the board and it was evident that something had burnt, was told that new board would cost £400 but he had a re-con one that he would do for £200 i think, all in i splashed out £370, and yes since then i have seen them cheaper in some of the on-line blogs etc!! Shame really as i thought i had found a pretty genuine guy but as he hasn't bothered to return my calls for the last week looks like my faith was wasted. Anyway the red light is the only one on when flashing and at a guess i would say it is once per second, it has been fine all evening since i turned the heating up. The water being so hot out of the taps still bugs me, is it normal for it to be untouchable with the thermostats on the cylinder to be set at 60?
Original fault was caused by diverter jamming and this burnt part of the board , was shown the board and it was evident that something had burnt, was told that new board would cost £400 but he had a re-con one that he would do for £200 i think, all in i splashed out £370, and yes since then i have seen them cheaper in some of the on-line blogs etc!! Shame really as i thought i had found a pretty genuine guy but as he hasn't bothered to return my calls for the last week looks like my faith was wasted. Anyway the red light is the only one on when flashing and at a guess i would say it is once per second, it has been fine all evening since i turned the heating up. The water being so hot out of the taps still bugs me, is it normal for it to be untouchable with the thermostats on the cylinder to be set at 60?
The recon PCB costs about £55 inclusive!
You have been ripped off!
British Gas would have done a fixed price repair for about £180.
I suppose you have no idea who did this overpriced repair? No proper receipt and paid with cash?
In this case there is probably little you can do now. I am very sorry that you have been ripped off like this but if you dont check who you are dealing with and handing over significant amounts of money then its only to be expected a few criminals will rip you off.
Tony
You have been ripped off!
British Gas would have done a fixed price repair for about £180.
I suppose you have no idea who did this overpriced repair? No proper receipt and paid with cash?
In this case there is probably little you can do now. I am very sorry that you have been ripped off like this but if you dont check who you are dealing with and handing over significant amounts of money then its only to be expected a few criminals will rip you off.
Tony
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