Hi
I've got an old Glowworm Energy Saver boiler that is playing up. The timer unit only allows me to select HW and CH together or HW on it's own. When I put it on HW and CH together it runs fine until the cylinder water is hot enough, the thermostat on the cylinder instructs the boiler to run in CH only and the boiler then clunks a bit. the pipes/rads bang and the bolier cuts out. I then have to push the reset button to get it started again but it only lasts a few minutes before cutting out again.
If I use a lot of hot water or wait until the water is cold then the boiler works fine until I get in the situation described above.
I've found a Honeywell motorised valve with an AUTO or MAN ON setting and it's currently set closer to MAN ON than AUTO. When the cylinder thermostat kicks in I hear a click in the valve but very little else and the bolier then cuts out.
The arm on the valve freely moves between AUTO and MAN ON when I move it - there is no resistance which I understand may be a problem but is this also what is causing the boiler to cut out? Would setting this valve to either setting sort out my CH problem?
Currently we can only have the rads on if there is no hot water.
Any advice or tips is much appreciated.
Cheers
I've got an old Glowworm Energy Saver boiler that is playing up. The timer unit only allows me to select HW and CH together or HW on it's own. When I put it on HW and CH together it runs fine until the cylinder water is hot enough, the thermostat on the cylinder instructs the boiler to run in CH only and the boiler then clunks a bit. the pipes/rads bang and the bolier cuts out. I then have to push the reset button to get it started again but it only lasts a few minutes before cutting out again.
If I use a lot of hot water or wait until the water is cold then the boiler works fine until I get in the situation described above.
I've found a Honeywell motorised valve with an AUTO or MAN ON setting and it's currently set closer to MAN ON than AUTO. When the cylinder thermostat kicks in I hear a click in the valve but very little else and the bolier then cuts out.
The arm on the valve freely moves between AUTO and MAN ON when I move it - there is no resistance which I understand may be a problem but is this also what is causing the boiler to cut out? Would setting this valve to either setting sort out my CH problem?
Currently we can only have the rads on if there is no hot water.
Any advice or tips is much appreciated.
Cheers