Boiler Overheating Very Hot!! - Central Heating System HELP!

No

"The output (carrying capacity) through a pipe of a given size is related to the resistance through the pipe and fittings and the velocity at which the water travels."

More length = more resistance

The figures the OP quoted will work on any domestic system over whatever lengths you would normally encounter and are a quick, easy, guaranteed way to work. No calculations required. Keeping it simple.
The actual calculated capacity is higher but the man on the job often does not have the time or knowledge to work it out.
 
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tamz";p="1815081 said:
No
More length = more resistance
The figures the OP quoted will work on any domestic system over whatever lengths you would normally encounter



Sorry for being so fick, what is the length of the pipes that you based your figures on, or lenghts you would normally encounter. :?: :?: :confused: :confused:
 
Sorry but I 'am fick!
If 15mm pipe is used, do all the radiators have to be balanced?
If 22mm copper pipe is used, no need to balance radiators?

Distance from combi upstairs is approx 10metres to downstairs T , total of downstairs rads approx 38,000 btu's.

Should 22mm be used to carry the volume of bt's needed?

Grateful for a simple answer please
 
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You will need to repipe it using 22mm branching to 15 (or 10 or:cool:.

No amount of balancing will improve things. 15mm is too small.

When repiped with 22 it will still need balanced.
 
I dont see where the OP has explained what the problem with the smelly overheating boiler was diagnosed as?

Tony
 
Hi, No it wasn't a DIY job, the experienced professional Heating Engineers don't know what is wrong with the boiler, they DO know that there wasn't a problem with the boiler when they installed the rads, they DO know that there is a problem with the boiler now, they also know they didn't cause the problem with it?
I have to disagree with you description of the installers as experienced professional Heating Engineers. They may be experienced installers, but they obviously have no idea how to carry out fault finding.

How do they know the problem was not caused by them? It could be something as simple as forgetting to open a valve which they closed or it could be coincidence.

If the installers can't resolve the problem you will have to get in someone who specializes in diagnosis and repairs.

It might be a good idea if you said where were located - there will probably be someone on here near you who can help.
Could anyone help with advice and guidance on where to find a independant experianced heating gas safe engineer who does investigative written fault finding reports and what the approx cost of such written report would be?
 
Hi, No it wasn't a DIY job, the experienced professional Heating Engineers don't know what is wrong with the boiler, they DO know that there wasn't a problem with the boiler when they installed the rads, they DO know that there is a problem with the boiler now, they also know they didn't cause the problem with it?
I have to disagree with you description of the installers as experienced professional Heating Engineers. They may be experienced installers, but they obviously have no idea how to carry out fault finding.

How do they know the problem was not caused by them? It could be something as simple as forgetting to open a valve which they closed or it could be coincidence.

If the installers can't resolve the problem you will have to get in someone who specializes in diagnosis and repairs.

It might be a good idea if you said where were located - there will probably be someone on here near you who can help.
Could anyone offer advise and guidance on where? to find such independant heating engineers that are GS Registered and specialize in fault finding and diagnostic reports, and what the approx cost would be for such written report? Is there a list of these specialists with a weblink?
 
Go to www.ciphe.org.uk (chartered institute of plumbiing and heating engineers)
I cannot THANK YOU enough.

Would I be correct in saying the btu/h watt output quoted by the manufacturer of any radiator is the maximum amount of heat output? If the height, width, length of a room, plus the amount of outside walls, the roofing insulation, the size of window, whether it had double glazing or cavity wall insulation, whether the room was a bedroom or lounge, the age of property etc etc would be taken into consideration of working out the correct heat loss programme?

i.e. If the heat loss worked out was 6,500 btu what would the amount of btu heat output required to heat the room be? 6,500-8,500 the minimum being the heat loss. What is the range between heat loss and heat output or heat input?
Does this make sense?
 
All the above are taken into consideration when calculating boiler/ radiator size. The radiator output is calculated according to the manufacturers ratings with a given drop across the flow and return, say 20F or 6C.
 

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