With all due respect, I would suggest you hire a heating engineer, with a good electrical knowlege
The motorized valve(s) will be in the airing cupboard. You will either have one as in the left picture or two as in the right.I don't know how many motorized valves we have, is there a way of telling?
With all due respect, I would suggest you hire a heating engineer, with a good electrical knowlege
Can you confirm that it is like the left pic - i.e has three pipes connected?We have one, just below the pump, looks like its got a on/off type switch on the bottom.
The problem could be either a faulty valve actuator - that's the metal box on the top - or a faulty gas valve.yes 3 pipes
Not very useful as I would expect the boiler to go out when you turn it off at the boiler switch. But that wasn't what I asked you to do! Please re-read my instructions and come back with any queries if you do not understand them.I managed to check this last night, as it's actually happening at 12.30am
The boiler switches on, I turned the High/Low temperature switch to off and the boiler turned off. It went back on again when I set it high/low. Then after a while the boiler switched off and the pump upstairs just keeps running all night.
Yes.I switched the hot water on at the timer but the boiler didn't turn off. The hot water thermostat was set at low and switched the hot water on again didn't switch the boiler off. The only way I could get the boiler to go off was with switching the thermostat off or switching off the mains supply. Does that help?
You normally only need a frost stat if the boiler is in an unheated part of the house, e.g the garage.I found the problem, yay!! It turns out it was the frost stat next to the boiler, it was set at 15 deg and probably has been for years. Anyone know what the frost stat should be set to?
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