Boiler won't stay lit

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Just moved into a Victorian terrace. Whole CH system a bit antiquated, we were hoping it would last until we could combine it with a planned extension and rejig.

Set up is a cold water tank immediately over a smallish 110(?) litre hot water cylinder in the loft (which has been converted). Stelrad Ideal Wx boiler in the kitchen. All working fine when we moved in. Had some radiators replaced and after that the boiler would not stay lit. Pilot light would light OK, when the boiler was turned on it initially lit up, but died after a few seconds. The plumber who did the radiators said that he thought the gas valve in the boiler had gone and as a temporary measure installed an immersion element in the tank - so we have hot water flowing from the hot taps once the immersion has been on.

We have had another guy round since to look at the plumbing for the bathroom (another job) and he said that he felt it was an airlock in the system. He said what was happening was the boiler was lighting, heating the water, but because of the airlock it was not being pumped away from the boiler and therefore the boiler thermostat was kicking in and turning off. He said that this sometimes happens after new radiators are fitted and to keep trying to light it each day as it sometimes rectifies itself. The boiler is currently staying lit for around 6 minutes, towards the end of which you can hear the water in the boiler bubbling through heat. (At least, that's what it sounds like). He said it would need the airlock releasing, and he would come back to do it, but we have not been able to get hold of him since.

One thing to add is that we have not turned the radiators on since the work was done, as the guy didn't do the greatest job in fixing the brackets into secure parts of the wall and therefore they have not been connected up as yet. However, I assume that this should have no bearing on the hot water as they are different systems?

Any advice gratefully received (and apologies for the lengthy first post).
 
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Your other plumber is possibly correct and yes the hot water would also be affected as it runs on the same circuit just tees off when required for heating or hot water.
Open up the rad valves that are npt connected with a bucket to let the air out of each one.
Then bleed the rest of the rads.
If this does not work you may have to backflush the system to get rid of the air.
Pete
 
Backfilling is basically using mains pressure to fill the system from for example a ground floor drain cock to force any air up and out through the vent pipe or cold feed.
pete

I would also suggest a powerflush /chemical clean of your system too
 
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It could be the feed pipe is blocked!

As usual if the plumber who fitted the rads cannot sort out such a simple problem than you may need a competent heating engineer.

Tony
 
Thank you Tony and Pete

Believe me, if I could find a competent plumber/heating engineer who would actually come and do the work I would be a happy man. I can only assume that work is falling out of the trees around SW12...
 
Agile said:
It could be the feed pipe is blocked!

As usual if the plumber who fitted the rads cannot sort out such a simple problem than you may need a competent heating engineer.

Tony
 
What has worked for me in the past is, if you open a drain off or a valve and let the water drain from there, usually the pressure your getting from your f&e tank pushes out any air.

If not, it couldn't be that the boiler is full of air and the over heat stat is kicking in?

There are a lot of things that it could be.

Dan
 

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