Can anyone tell me what the ST6 connector pins labelled NP and LP are for?
Some background - comments always welcome.
I have an existing system where a conservatory has been added, radiators with thermo valves, and a simple Honeywell motorized valve (V4043B1257) in the feed to the conservatory. The valve is normally open, and has not yet been connected. It appears to be a L,N,E 3 wire 6W 240V motor, that's it, no feedback from the valve.
So at the moment when the heating is running the conservatory is in the circuit all the time.
I want to be able to flick a switch (activate a switch) to turn off the feed to the conservatory.
The valve should provide function this when it is powered, but I think it's not a good idea to have the valve powered all the time. I imagine the motor would be driven to the end stop and be constantly turning or something similar.
So the intention would be to only power the valve when both the switch is activated AND the boiler is being used. I could drive the motor from the electrical thermostat, so when heat is called for and the switch is active the motor runs to close the valve, but because the pump will continue to run to circulate the heating water for some time between thermostat operations this isn't really going to achieve much.
I imagine the valve would shut when heat is called for, then when the stat opens the motor would continue to pump and the valve would open, effectively dumping the heat in the system into the conservatory - not much gain here.
So without some expensive controller, I am considering powering the switch circuit from the pump feed, then if the pump is running and the switch is active the conservatory will be cut off. Once the pump stops the valve will open, I expect the conservatory circuit would still steal some heat by convection - but not actually be pumped through positively.
Hence my question about the ST6 connector. It has two spare pins labelled NP and LP, I wonder if they are 240V feed for the pump, and whether I can add the load of the valve motor without causing any issues.
Failing that I can piggy back onto the pump feed, but I guess this might be marginal if I have a problem for some other reason and need to make a warranty claim.
Some background - comments always welcome.
I have an existing system where a conservatory has been added, radiators with thermo valves, and a simple Honeywell motorized valve (V4043B1257) in the feed to the conservatory. The valve is normally open, and has not yet been connected. It appears to be a L,N,E 3 wire 6W 240V motor, that's it, no feedback from the valve.
So at the moment when the heating is running the conservatory is in the circuit all the time.
I want to be able to flick a switch (activate a switch) to turn off the feed to the conservatory.
The valve should provide function this when it is powered, but I think it's not a good idea to have the valve powered all the time. I imagine the motor would be driven to the end stop and be constantly turning or something similar.
So the intention would be to only power the valve when both the switch is activated AND the boiler is being used. I could drive the motor from the electrical thermostat, so when heat is called for and the switch is active the motor runs to close the valve, but because the pump will continue to run to circulate the heating water for some time between thermostat operations this isn't really going to achieve much.
I imagine the valve would shut when heat is called for, then when the stat opens the motor would continue to pump and the valve would open, effectively dumping the heat in the system into the conservatory - not much gain here.
So without some expensive controller, I am considering powering the switch circuit from the pump feed, then if the pump is running and the switch is active the conservatory will be cut off. Once the pump stops the valve will open, I expect the conservatory circuit would still steal some heat by convection - but not actually be pumped through positively.
Hence my question about the ST6 connector. It has two spare pins labelled NP and LP, I wonder if they are 240V feed for the pump, and whether I can add the load of the valve motor without causing any issues.
Failing that I can piggy back onto the pump feed, but I guess this might be marginal if I have a problem for some other reason and need to make a warranty claim.