boxing in round bath

[Matt_boro]

i plan to box in round my bath and then tile over the top of it

what thickness timber should i use for the framework?

is it fine to use plywood for the actual boxing in? if so, what thickness?

thanks in advance,
Matt

 

[gregers]

2x1 sawn or prepared,up to you what you use?
i would say minimum of 12mm depending on how many struts you put in.

 

[Matt_boro]

thanks, i'll do just that!

 

[MickBee]

i plan to box in round my bath and then tile over the top of it

what thickness timber should i use for the framework?

is it fine to use plywood for the actual boxing in? if so, what thickness?

thanks in advance,
Matt

Have you thought about how to access the plumbing and waste? You can't be sure that nothing will ever go wrong - unless you are doing a quick cosmetic job and selling on to someone else who will have to deal with the inevitable problem.

[I looked at your post because I'm about to reverse-engineer access to a bath where the previous owners put pine cladding round the bath. The job my son asked for help with was replacing the external waste pipes which have disintegrated, but we thought it worth being able to get at the fittings inside the bathroom.]

My first thought about how to make your tiled panel removable would be to drill holes through the tiles and use mirror screws - not sure about the best way to deal with the edges of the panel(s).

 

[Richard C]

Plywood, even WBP, is not the ideal material as a base for tiled bath panels; if water/moisture gets in the back, the ply will expand, warp & the tiles will fall off; use waterproof tile backer boards.

 

[ajrobb]

Plywood, even WBP, is not the ideal material as a base for tiled bath panels; if water/moisture gets in the back, the ply will expand, warp & the tiles will fall off; use waterproof tile backer boards.

Any preference for Dukkaboards, Wedi, Marmox, Hardibacker or others?

I'm thinking of cement bonded particle board under the bath. Would that do?

 

[foxhole]

18mm or 22 mm ply is ideal, even if it gets soaked [the finish would need to be appalling for that to happen] it does not warp [should be firmly screwed in place] and does not require a frame.Don't worry about access as it's requirement is not inevitable and simple enough to remove and replace in any event.

 

[Richard C]

Any preference for Dukkaboards, Wedi, Marmox, Hardibacker or others?
I'm thinking of cement bonded particle board under the bath. Would that do?

Whatever takes your fancy as long as they are waterproof.

18mm or 22 mm ply is ideal, even if it gets soaked [the finish would need to be appalling for that to happen] it does not warp [should be firmly screwed in place] and does not require a frame.Don't worry about access as it's requirement is not inevitable and simple enough to remove and replace in any event.

Facts;
ply is timber; timber expands when wet, it has nothing to do with the finish; ordinary flexible adhesive & grout (not latex based) isn't that flexible, it will crack if it’s elasticity is exceeded; adhesive MI’s recommend sealing the back of WBP flooring (let alone the back of a bath panel) to reduce the possibility of water/moisture ingress which causes the back veneers to expand, curling the ply & causing tile failure; water proof adhesive & grout is only water proof if in the sense it won’t disintegrate when it gets wet, unless it’s an epoxy based product, it will still absorb water & is why you should never use ply as a tile base in a shower cubicle unless it’s tanked; check it out for yourself

A trawl through the forum archive will throw up a several instances of failure; you may be lucky, I suppose it depends how much water you throw about but IMO it’s not worth the risk. Use tile backer board it remains dimensionally stable when wet & is far easier to work with.

 

[foxhole]

Not talking shower base here, a simple bath panel, many of which are made from mdf these days, should not be any water penetration possible let alone enough to dislodge tiles.
In my opinion, .

 

[Richard C]

Not talking shower base here, a simple bath panel, many of which are made from mdf these days, should not be any water penetration possible let alone enough to dislodge tiles.
In my opinion, .

Admittedly, but moisture penetration can still be a problem from the back, particularly if you don't seal it & especially if you have kids around. As for cheopo MDF, forget it; as I said, depends how much water is splashed around &, really, how long you want your investment to last