Brand new heating system
- Thread starter Oops123
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If it's on 10mm feeds then that's a big rad, is it one of the rads that doesn't heat up properly?
As per the quick sizing table of the HVAC design guide a piece of 10mm pipe will flow ~ 2.4Kw optimum, that's without any other loads, bends, restrictions etc using specific flow rates (1.5m/s), relative pump head and temps differentials. That's 10mm copper with soldered fittings, 10mm plastic will carry less due to the restrictions caused by inserts etc.
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Useful flow calculator https://heatpumps.co.uk/pressure+flow/simulator.html
Thanks, that's brilliant. How do you account for radiators with something like this? I've never known whether radiators add much resistance to the system or whether they are very free flowing. Assuming lockshield and TRV fully open.
Did you pay with cash, or credit card etc?
Yup, much thicker walls with plastic, that and the inserts drop the effective ID to around 7mm wherever they are used
The main resistance to/from a rad is at the valves
Hello Harry,
Payed cash mate. I got the the work done while I was away on holiday and just payed up when I came back. I always work on the principle of if the work has been done why should the tradesman have to wait around for their money. Obviously I didn't realise all the problems that we were going to encounter down the line. After flushing and balancing he guaranteed us it would be fine. We are now having problems with the Hive losing connection. Never had any problems with the Internet before, so went and bought a new WiFi mesh system just incase there was a problem with the Internet dropping off but its still happening. This is the second Hive thermostat we have had as well , as he had to replace the first one which didn't work correctly. I'm absolutely sick of the whole situation now. Do you think it will be worth me getting someone else to come in and have a look at the heating system to see if there's anything obvious that he has missed. Thanks again lads for all the comments and help
Payed cash mate. I got the the work done while I was away on holiday and just payed up when I came back. I always work on the principle of if the work has been done why should the tradesman have to wait around for their money. Obviously I didn't realise all the problems that we were going to encounter down the line. After flushing and balancing he guaranteed us it would be fine. We are now having problems with the Hive losing connection. Never had any problems with the Internet before, so went and bought a new WiFi mesh system just incase there was a problem with the Internet dropping off but its still happening. This is the second Hive thermostat we have had as well , as he had to replace the first one which didn't work correctly. I'm absolutely sick of the whole situation now. Do you think it will be worth me getting someone else to come in and have a look at the heating system to see if there's anything obvious that he has missed. Thanks again lads for all the comments and help
Completely agree, the issue with this though is the tradesman hasn't completed the work IMO. The work is only completed when everything is fitted and finished and it all works as designed. If it doesn't then they shouldn't get paid. I always run the system up as per design and get the client to check everything, even then though, if it then has an issue then the work is guaranteed and I'll be back to sort it.
He should be allowed to fix it but if he's tried and it still isn't working then your well within your rights to raise a claim against him as he hasn't done the job right, unless of course he can prove it's not something he has done.
if it drags on then always good to get a 2nd opinion.
You could consider installing CLOSE COUPLED TEES with a extra circ pump which should almost doube the CH side head and theoretically increase the flowrate by ~ 40%, maybe first invest in a £20 IR gun and measure the boiler flow& return temps to give you a idea of the circulation flow. You might also contact Baxi and ask them, the primary heat exchager head loss and (at) flowrate and its pump head.
It looks like there's very few settings on this boiler. I can't see any which would adjust the power.
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