Brickies Mate/labourer Job description

[^woody^]

One thing that gets my back up with regards to pointing, are those cheap marshalltown rip-off jointers, which are not half round, but are more of a 'V' shape.

The joints look terrible when these are used

 

[The-brickie]

Proper full joint, flushed off if needed with a pointing trowel then brushed over last thing. its the only way to finish hand made stock in my book. I'm going to give it all a clean with dis-clean when all finished to expose the aggregate in the sand to make it look more weathered.

The rubbing in irons that come in a boxed sets of trowels are, as ^woody^ says, sh!te.

Saw a fella jointing up with a line pin once!

 

[noseall]

we call a jointing iron, up here in Staffs' a 'gagmush'. and mortar is called 'compo'.

 

[tawelfryn]

I call a jointer a jointer, however, I got loads of names for compo, muck, Bombay (mix) amy (turtle (mertel) thats from working in Germany) putz (German again) lol the labourer always knows what I mean

 

[Thermo]

bucket handle and pug or muck. Compo down here is a reference to sharp sand. strange old world!

 

[DIWHY]

Last questions honest

What is a brickies brush?

Does top'n'tail just mean perps 1st beds last?

How many bricks should we be laying (properly) per day?

Whats the best saw for cutting breeze block?

 

[^woody^]

Last questions honest

How many bricks should we be laying (properly) per day?

All of them

 

[The-brickie]

I see my little saying has been nicked from the london bricklayers forum.... Bigbaldy is my handle on there tawelfryn

Heres another.. How many arrisses does a good brick need?

Any soft brush will do, brush when muck/compo/mortar/pudlo/pug/mertel/bombay/putz is hard

Making the perps look nice and neat, top and bottom, no ridges when the bed joint is rubbed up.

I work and price on 450-650 bricks a day, depends on how many slow bits are in the work.

Any old hard point saw will do or a proper block saw available from B&Qs

 

[tawelfryn]

lol you can have it back I found it so funny

I remember in college ( many moons ago) perps first then beds for jointing, this meant you had to go back and "top and tail" although topping and tailing wasnt the norm so much back then, thats why I have reverted to beds first and pers second on price as its doing topping and tailing for you in one clean sweep, then brush later takes all the hoods off

 

[shedhed]

Proper full joint, flushed off if needed with a pointing trowel then brushed over last thing. its the only way to finish hand made stock in my book



It's just that a couple of years ago a bloke shown me a way of pointing "ye oldie " type bricks so they're full and clean.
you need an old car tyre and cut from the centre to the top of the tyre wall about 40 to 50 mm strip .
Now use the wall of tyre bit to point up if theres any hollows it flushes up lovelyand the rubber acts like a squeezy and takes the surplus off the brick at same time.Leaves the joint looking like its bin bag rubbed, without the smear.
we did block of houses and it looked the dogs danglies didn't need acid or owt