Bricks holding water

[nowtaboutnowt]

Hi
About 3 years ago I had someone convert my old outside toilet and outhouse to one extended room which became the kitchen.
But since the wall was built (of old cracked bricks I might add) the wall seems to hold the water when it rains and is permanantly during the winter months. I have ground out the mortar (which fell out) and repointed, I now wondering if I should insert an airbrick. Oh the cavity was insulted aswell, which I think may be soaked......

Cheers

 

[JohnD]

Squirt a hosepipe at the roof and see if you have a faulty gutter.

If it is due to poor quality bricks, you might think about having it rendered or clad. I have a wall clad in shiplap, it blends quite well with the garden timber, and I treat it with the same stain i use on the fences and garage door. You use felt and battens a bit like doing a roof and do not need professional skills to do a neat job (unlike rendering).

 

[nowtaboutnowt]

John
It's not the guttering that is quite new, it is the brick quality, I am a bit opposed to rendering or even painting because I think it looks like your hiding something...!
What about PVA or similar, would a this let moisture escape whilst protecting it?

 

[Static]

If you build a wall of cracked bricks what do you expect.. rebuild it.

 

[nowtaboutnowt]

Hey why didn't I think of that Static..........!
Nothing constructive then...?

 

[Static]

Oh you want constructive.. ok..

Did you leave a gap between the external face and the insulation in the cavity. Also how does the cavity drain, is there a cavity tray at low level?
How much of the wall is cracked bricks?

 

[nowtaboutnowt]

There are not many cracked bricks, but I don't think thats the problem. The brick are a dull colour (no sheen like on an accrington) Still with me?
They act like a sponge when it rains and just soak up the water.
I dont know if the builder left a space between the external face and the insulation in the cavity and I would say no to a cavity tray.

Cheers

 

[JohnD]

Clad it or rebuild it.

 

[nowtaboutnowt]

Have you got a photee of your shiplap John?

 

[JohnD]

No but I'll think about taking one later

 

[Static]

Cracked bricks provide a faster route for water to get into the cavity and sit, also all bricks absorb water some far more than others. If there is a pool of water in the cavity then the bricks will be damp for long periods.

Replace the cracked bricks, put in weepholes into the perp ends of the bricks at DPC level (if there is even a dpc!) to allow the water a route to escape. Then clad it. Alternatively remove the lot and rebuild properly.

 

[nowtaboutnowt]

Thanks Static I'll replace the brick with glass and throw a few goldfish in the cavity, should look good! Joking apart (was that a joke) thanks for your input, I'll deliberate over my options.
While your on. The ceiling was studded, insulated then plasterboarded, but I don't think there is a big enough air gap left (the roof is concrete) and the only ventilation is 2 windows and the external door. will this cause me problems with condensation above the plasterboards?

 

[Static]

While your on. The ceiling was studded, insulated then plasterboarded, but I don't think there is a big enough air gap left (the roof is concrete) and the only ventilation is 2 windows and the external door. will this cause me problems with condensation above the plasterboards?

I wouldnt of thought so, just leave a window slightly open to allow the room to naturally ventilate.

 

[nowtaboutnowt]

Thanks for that Static

 

[JohnD]

Have you got a photee of your shiplap John?

here we are

http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n228/JohnD_UK/POL_0101.jpg

The edges are trimmed with strips of teak which I happened to have. The timber was given several coats of Cuprinol Preserver, especially the bottom two boards, and the ends of the trim which were dipped, then I used a waxy Shed & Fence stain which goes on very easily (the same as i use on the fences and garage door, so it blends in). The original coats were put on before assembly, but recoats are done in place. The cladding is on battens, with roofing felt behind. In the gap behind the cladding I tucked a few spare pieces of shiplap, cut to size and stained, in case I need to replace any damaged or rotten pieces. The old cladding was vertical T&G and very annoyingly, they all rotted from the bottom because rainwater soaked in. I have spaced the new boards away from the brickwork, and tilted out the bottom board slightly to throw off water.

The hardwood door sills are treated with linseed oil (tried it for the first time this year and seems good)