Britony Combi SE

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7 Oct 2008
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My Britony Combi SE boiler will not work, locking out as soon as I switch on either the hot water or central heating. It has been getting worse for some time, constantly needing to be reset, but now locks out again as soon as I reset it. It is flashing the "60" LED which according to my instructions means "Ionisation printed circuit board fault" Does anyone have any experience of this? Is this self diagnosis function usually reliable or am I possibly dealing with another fault aswell as, or instead of, the circuit board? I have just replaced the ionisation electrode which has made no difference.

Any help or advice appreciated as although I am generally quite handy at fixing things I have absolutely no experience of this type of boiler.

Jonathan
 
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Have you check power supply polarity and earthing?

Does the flame flash across the burner and envelop the ionisation electrode sufficiently?
 
Had this exact problem on my Britoni SE 80 - the boiler would start the ignition sequence, fan would switch on along with the pump... and it would just sit there without trying to spark. After a few seconds it would lock out with the flashing 60.

In my case it was the PCB that was at fault - never traced the problem but I suspected a dry joint somewhere as it cleared up for a few months ever once in a while. Replacing the PCB cleared the problem up in my case - I'm no heating engineer however so would recommend waiting and seeing if anyone else can suggest anything - the PCBs aren't cheap!
 
Update:

Today I took it to pieces to look for any obvious bad connections, loose wires etc, and when I put it back together it ran for a good few hours without locking out. Eventually it did pack up again and went back to code 60. When I try to relight it the flames do envelop the ionisation electrode, it runs like this for a few seconds, then locks out again. It is now back to working for a while then packing up intermittently. It has never displayed any faults other than 60. I have not yet checked the power supply on the assumption that it was connected up properly as it used to work properly, what exactly would I need to check? I'm new to this...
 
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If detection electrode was the same length as the one you replaced it might be worthwhile checking with there technical department to see if there was an update (longer probe) i think there was and get the part number, if you have already fitted update than it would be a new PCB, Gary.
 
Fitted new circuit board last night and it all seems to be working properly now. Not cheap but at least I've got heat now. Thanks to everyone who replied.
 

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