Broken cistern

[Calculus]

I have a toilet with a 9 litre cistern. It has developed a crack:

Untitled

• Calculus
• 6 May 2015
• 1

It leaks about four pints of water overnight which is pretty bad and I have learned from other posts it could disintegrate at any time, deluging house and home. I know either the cistern or the whole toilet have to be replaced. The problem is the cistern is a 9 litre type and I do not want a toilet with a lower capacity. My understanding is that 9 litre toilets can be repaired but if completely replaced the new one must be a lower capacity. So repair it must be even if it costs more than a new toilet!

First question is about the possibility of patching it up while I'm waiting for a plumber to do the replacement. I was at the shops today and bought something called Araldite Repair Aqua. According to the box this works underwater and is suitable for ceramics. Can anyone confirm this is the right stuff, and if I have to drain the cistern and let it dry out before application? I don't think the crack goes right the way down because if I flush and don't refill the leakage stops completely. [n.b. we have a second toilet so can leave this one unused for a while]

Second question is about replacing the cistern, for which I will certainly call in a plumber. Here is a portrait of the offending khazi:

Untitled

• Calculus
• 6 May 2015
• 1

The lid on the cistern is a DIY job in wood after the old one shattered. The dimensions excluding the lid are width 19.5" (49.5cm); height 13.5" (34cm); depth 7.75" (19.5cm).

The main question is, is it replaceable? If it isn't, I'm doomed. I'm not bothered what the replacement looks like and if ceramic is no longer available I will settle for plastic or whatever. Also; will any low-level 9 litre bottom-entry cistern do? I have no idea how the cistern connects to the pan. Does it just sit on top or is there a manufacturer-specific connection? Last question is, should I be trying to locate a replacement myself (ebay perhaps) or would I be best leaving that to the plumber? I would much rather leave it to the plumber.

Thanks in anticipation.

 

[Burnerman]

Whatever adhesive you use, it will work better if the area is clean and dry, and kept that way until the adhesive has cured....epoxy adhesives always work better when its warm.
As for a new cistern - well it could be bolted to the pan, in which case the internal bolts will be visible, or it could be connected by a steel bracket, which is located by the flush mechanism.
Personally I wouldn't worry too much about the lesser flush.....some work quite well - especially if you adjust the water level to be just below the overflow!
John

 

[longdogs]

Why not isolate the water to the cistern (hopefully you have an isolation valve) and just throw a bucket of water down the pan until you get it replaced.

 

[Nige F]

www.brokenbog.com

 

[Calculus]

Thanks everyone for these replies.

John, it looks like the cistern is locked to the pan by two bolts:

Untitled

• Calculus
• 8 May 2015
• 1

I can't see any connections looking into the inside of the cistern so presumably there are two lugs or something on the base with a thread to receive a bolt. Hopefully the width between the two threads is standard. There are no manufacturer's markings on the pan or cistern so presumably it was a generic type not sold direct to the public.

Squeaky there is an isolation valve on the inlet. It's operated by screwdriver and I'm not sure how many times it can be turned on and off before it goes loose so I don't want to use it except in an emergency.

Nige that is a fantastic site and could be my salvation. I will make a careful examination of what is there.