built-in bookcase

[bolst3r]

I would like to build a built-in bookshelf like in the image below but I have a few questions...

1) What is the best material to use?

2) I was looking at timber at timber merchants but the widest plank seems to be around 20cm however I need it around 24cm as cookbooks are pretty deep is MDF my only choice (hate working and painting it)

3) In the picture below they don't have vertical uprights at each end but instead fix the horizontal shelves direct to the wall, how is this achieved without seeing the fixings?

4) I was planning on doing most of this using dowels as I figured it would be strong and hidden but is there another preferable method?

5) My initial though was to build it slightly away from the wall almost constructing it like flat pack as this is the only way I can see dowels working or is this a bad way to proceed? Will I be causing myself lots of extra hassle/work? Is it perhaps better to build it in situ?

In my diagram i've allowed vertical uprights at each end (in blue) then was planning on using dowels to fix the horizontal shelves (in pink) then lastly cut a stack of vertical uprights, drill, countersink, screw and fills these in place. Once it was all together I was looking at painting/finishing it in white that hopefully wont mark as books are slid in and out...

Sorry for the ton of questions, i've done quite a few things before and have a range of tools but I lack a bench saw so was planning on getting most of the timber pre cut to depth then plane on site as necessary

Untitled

• bolst3r
• 14 Jan 2014
• 1

 

[foxhole]

Wide 'planks' bow and cup hence they are not usually made in extra wide widths.
You could use pine board , available up to 600mm wide but pointless if you are painting.Would use 18mm mdf. As all uprights are staggered you could simply screw and glue together.

 

[bolst3r]

how would you do either end? Would you do vertical uprights, building it away from the wall then install and finish using some sort of quadrant to take out any uneven gaps/spaces?

Would you glue and screw each horizontal shelf into the verticals?

 

[vv2806]

What are you going to keep on the floor under the first shelf? I personally would put the first shelf 3-4" above the floor (or whereever the skirting boards edge is) and would close the gap underneat with a plint. Would close the gaps between the vertical uprights and the walls, as well as the gap between the top horizontal plank and the ceiling.

 

[bolst3r]

My sub cables come out in one corner and it's deeper than the shelving so that will sit on the floor hence it being open so it doesn't look too strange.

Think i'm going to make the bookcase slightly narrower (2-3") then pack in between this and the wall as it wont be plumb then use a filler strip to cover. I will do the same for the header but will make this around 10-12" high.

Guess i'll need some long 40mm screws to go in each end of the horizontal shelves and will have to make sure I stagger the uprights to keep support to the maximum

 

[foxhole]

how would you do either end? Would you do vertical uprights, building it away from the wall then install and finish using some sort of quadrant to take out any uneven gaps/spaces?

Would you glue and screw each horizontal shelf into the verticals?

Pretty much as you describe, you could leave it short of the walls and scribe in a mdf lip around 50mm, all round set back about 5-6mm.

 

[bolst3r]

ok, purchased MR MDF from Travis Perkins although surprised as was expecting it to look quite green, however if you look closely there is a green core to the board. Got them to cut it to plank sizes to save time although they've stored some badly as they have bowed! Might have to get them to replace if I can't use them. Not just need to research the best screws and painting techniques/method

 

[foxhole]

Best paint before essembly, you can then just touch up any marks. Short bristle roller gives nice mark free finish but can be hard to find.[other option is mohair].

 

[Deluks]

ok, purchased MR MDF from Travis Perkins although surprised as was expecting it to look quite green, however if you look closely there is a green core to the board. Got them to cut it to plank sizes to save time although they've stored some badly as they have bowed! Might have to get them to replace if I can't use them. Not just need to research the best screws and painting techniques/method

MDF will sag if left unsupported, you might be able to straighten it out though, lay it on a flat surface stacked a few boards high, the weight will bend it back.

Screws

http://www.ironmongerydirect.co.uk/...ixings/woodscrews/11780/spax_mdf_screw/163976

I would dowel it personally, although it will be slightly fiddlier.