Cable ID

[antighsiothail]

I know it's a bit of a long shot but can anyone tell what rating the cable on the left might be? The cable on the right is modern 2.5mm t&e. I should say there are no markings on the cable at all.

http://s1157.photobucket.com/user/normanbrooks1950/library/

Each conductor is made up of 7 strands, and it's connected to a 32a breaker. It supplied the cooker in a 1975 build house, and I'm wondering if it would be up to supplying a new oven and hob. The hob is rated at 7.9kw and the oven from a previous posting appears to be 2.5kw. The cable is under about 10 inches of insulation in the loft, but underneath it is up against the ceiling plasterboard. If it's up to the job would it be an advantage to lift it above the insulation, and clip it to the roof trusses?

 

[EFLImpudence]

It looks like 6mm² so should not, with 32A MCB, be under more than 4in. of insulation so best to clip it above the insulation if you can.

Then it will be alright to connect the oven and hob.

 

[antighsiothail]

Sounds good, be a bit of a bind but I will take it out from under the insulation.

 

[JohnW2]

It looks like 6mm² so should not, with 32A MCB, be under more than 4in. of insulation so best to clip it above the insulation if you can. ... Then it will be alright to connect the oven and hob.

True. Alternatively, if a 25A MCB is available for the OP's CU, then he could use that and leave the cable under the insulation. In fact, if the loads quoted (7.9kW+2.5kW) are, as usual, quoted at 240V, then the after-diversity current at 230V would be just under 20A, so a (readily available) 20A MCB would do the trick. ... all assuming, of course, that it actually is 6mm² cable (although I'm sure that it is at least 6mm²).

Kind Regards, John

 

[antighsiothail]

Should have added that the hob is an induction hob so, from what I've read here diversity doesn't apply to them?

 

[EFLImpudence]

Should have added that the hob is an induction hob so, from what I've read here diversity doesn't apply to them?

Nonsense.

 

[antighsiothail]

OK

 

[JohnW2]

Should have added that the hob is an induction hob so, from what I've read here diversity doesn't apply to them?

As EFLI has said, that's nonsense.

Kind Regards, John

 

[antighsiothail]

Apologies, thought I had read that somewhere on here.

 

[EFLImpudence]

Apologies, thought I had read that somewhere on here.

You very well may have.

 

[antighsiothail]

What I would intend to do then is;
New cooker control box 45 amp, 2 cables from it
1. 6mm to cooker outlet for hob.
2. 2.5mm to fcu (switched) for oven (MI says minimum 13 amp fuse)
6mm cable to run vertically to below worktop level then horizontally to outlet.
2.5mm to run vertically into back of kitchen unit to fcu (I'm assuming oven already has cable).
How does that sound?

 

[EFLImpudence]

What I would intend to do then is;
New cooker control box 45 amp, 2 cables from it

No, just run one 6mm² to a dual cooker connection unit.
http://www.alertelectrical.com/prod/1022/click-45a-dual-cooker-outlet-plate-prw217

1. 6mm to cooker outlet for hob.

4mm² will suffice.

2. 2.5mm to fcu (switched) for oven (MI says minimum 13 amp fuse)

If they do, indeed, state 'minimum 13A fuse' then they mean 'minimum 13A supply', therefore you do not need an FCU.

6mm cable to run vertically to below worktop level then horizontally to outlet.

Ok.

2.5mm to run vertically into back of kitchen unit to fcu (I'm assuming oven already has cable).

See above.

 

[antighsiothail]

I was intending to put the oven on a partially separate feed so that it could be easier taken out should the need arise, 'cos as flameport pointed out it's just a hunk of junk from Ikea made down to a price!

 

[EFLImpudence]

I was intending to put the oven on a partially separate feed so that it could be easier taken out should the need arise,

It will be.

 

[JohnW2]

I was intending to put the oven on a partially separate feed so that it could be easier taken out should the need arise, 'cos as flameport pointed out it's just a hunk of junk from Ikea made down to a price!

With EFLI's suggestion, removing the oven would only require disconnecting its cable from the dual connection unit. The one advantage of having a switch (or switched FCU) in the feed to the oven would be that it would afford a means of isolating it (without disconnecting the cable) should it develop a fault, so that you could continue using the hob.

Kind Regards, John