Hi chaps, I'm planning on putting a new cam belt and associated bits on my 1998 Peugeot Boxer 1.9 non turbo. I planned on doing this job about 10 years ago but you know how it is! Anyway, at that time I actually bought a belt from a main dealer while I was in there. It's a Dayco belt in a Peugeot box, and has spent the last ten years or so in my garage/shed in the box. It's a bit dusty but otherwise clean. So, what do think? Safe to use? Or should I just get another one?
Cam Belt Query
- Thread starter keyplayer
- Start date
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Personally for what they cost I'd get another one.....newer belts are tougher than old ones (according to Gates.)
John
John
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Budget for a new auxiliary belt too, of course.....I think the kit contains one tensioner, water pump and one guide pulley if I remember correctly.
John
John
Yeah ten years is a bit slack as the belt probably is too! The van's done 115k miles of which I've done about 30k. i dunno if it's ever had one, I've only decided to do it now as I have to do a fairly long motorway round trip and don't really trust it. Otherwise I wouldn't have bothered, the van's getting a bit tired now, I'm pondering getting a new one.
Just doing this now and having taken the cover off it looks like the camshaft seal is slightly leaking. Is this easy to replace? I'm assuming a new one will pop in easily enough but what about getting the old one out?
eta - I'll put some pics up later....
eta - I'll put some pics up later....
Yep, it's possible but it's one of those jobs once you start you have to continue.....buy a genuine Peugeot seal first, and let's see if the outside rim is metal or plastic.
John
John
Yeah, I can see that you'd have to destroy it to get it out! I've been struggling to get the crank pulley off to be honest, I'll leave it overnight for some penetrating to get in there. I've called it a day for now but apparently there's some nasty weather on the way tomorrow. Which is nice. Is the crank bolt a stretch bolt on these? The Russek specs an angle for tightening rather than a torque, but I've just noticed the Gates kit didn't come with a new bolt. The old one was tight virtually all the way out, and I mean properly tight. Looks like way too much Loctite on it to be honest!
The crank bolt isn't a stretch one.....its just bloody long and tight! The secret is to heat the bolt head up, and allow the heat to soak down the bolt onto the Loctite.....once the Loctite gets hot it softens and comes out with much less fuss.
If you don't have access to a windy gun, you'll have to devise some way of holding the camshaft as you undo the bolt, but that's not as tight as the crank one.
John
If you don't have access to a windy gun, you'll have to devise some way of holding the camshaft as you undo the bolt, but that's not as tight as the crank one.
John
Thanks for your input Burnerman, much appreciated. I've got a pulley holding tool I knocked up once out of 3 pieces of 5mm flat bar and some nuts and bolts, however, there's an M8 bolt used to lock the pulley for timing purposes, going through a hole in the pulley and screwed into the head. Is that not adequate to lock the cam, which is keyed to the pulley? I can't see why it wouldn't be.
Yep, that's the bolt which is used to hold the camshaft when setting the timing. It should be fine, as you say but I just don't know how tough the cam sprocket is - but knowing myself if I didn't have the windy gear I'd give it a try! Screw a quality bolt right into the head though, and give it every chance.
For replacing the seal, I have the equivalent of Screwfix' 1139J Teng Tools set but realistically I've found sacrificing two electronic screwdrivers and bending the tips just over 45 degrees to be just as good.....I also have a scalpel to cut anything that's left. It doesn't matter if the cylinder head counterbore gets a little marked but it does matter if the cam itself is scratched!
John
For replacing the seal, I have the equivalent of Screwfix' 1139J Teng Tools set but realistically I've found sacrificing two electronic screwdrivers and bending the tips just over 45 degrees to be just as good.....I also have a scalpel to cut anything that's left. It doesn't matter if the cylinder head counterbore gets a little marked but it does matter if the cam itself is scratched!
John
I'll leave the bolt in and use my diy tool I think! Can't do any harm. I must get a compressor one of these days, I'm doing a Fiesta belt kit straight after this job and a Volvo D5 soon if I decide to have the car. Looking at the after market camseal on ECP, it is just a plastic/rubber ring with a spring in it so if the original is like that it should come out ok.
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