Can a Mains socket be vertically inline with light switch

[GarfieldTheFirst]

I want to install a socket at the required height from the floor but it will be vertically inline with a light switch.
There is a only a gap between door frame & wardrobe of 100mm and i want a socket there so I can plug in a vacuum at that position.
The Light switch cable runs from ceiling to switch and all other circuit run up to loft (bungalow).
If it is ok to do, does the cable have to run behind light switch back box? Or through it?
Advise appreciated.

Thanks
Garf

 

[sparkwright]

Cables do need to be in safe zones, ie run in line with electrical fittings.

If this is a solid wall, and the socket cable is to come from above downwards, then the best way is to run the cable through the light switch box.

If you're making a load of damage anyway, it may be beneficial to use a deeper box for the lightswitch, only really if it's likely you may want a dimmer, or the switch has a lot of wires at it.

Use grommets on cable entries on metal boxes.

It's best if the socket cable goes through the switch box, as people can see it's route, helpful when drilling holes in the wall, for pictures and that.

One problem with running the cable 'behind' the switch box, as you proposed, is it could be a problem as it's hard to see. One day someone may feel the need to drill more fixings for the switch box, as unlikely as it seems.

 

[Taylortwocities]

Is this a double socket? If so, you no problems as the safe zone is determined by the width of the the socket itself - and it is wider than teh light switch.

So mount the socket centred onm the light switch and use the cable access hole in the back box atg the right or left of the box. Run your cable up vertically and it will miss the edge of the light switch altogether. No need to go through opt behind the light switch.

 

[sparkwright]

He said the socket is to go on a strip of wall 100 mm wide.

 

[plugwash]

If you are going to run the socket cable(s) through the switch box I would at least run conduit between the boxes.so you can pull the cables back out.

Otherwise you will have a big problem if you ever need to replace the switch box.

 

[Taylortwocities]

He said the socket is to go on a strip of wall 100 mm wide.

Ah yes. Sorry, so single boxes.
Use a deep box for the switch of u won't have enough room.

 

[GarfieldTheFirst]

Following on discussion:-
Conduit (Round 20mm) for socket is now sunk in channel in wall.
Do I run the conduit into the back box, hence no need for grommet as conduit protects cable. or do I run upto metal backup then grommet back box?
And is it possible to fit 2 x 2.5mm cables into 1 piece of 20mm round conduit or is it difficult to feed, so best to run 2 lengths of conduit to the socket in question.
Finally - Fixing backbox in recess - what screw type needed?
Thanks

 

[Taylortwocities]

You can run the conduit right into the box, no grommet needed.

You'll have a real struggle getting 2x2.5mm cables into a 20mm conduit. Better to strip it back and run them as singles. You are supposed to leave 45% free space in the conduit.

Why do you need 2 cables in there, better to have this socket as a spur maybe? Then its only one bit of T&E. Easy to do in a bungalow as you can have an accessible junction box up in the loft.

Can't advise on fixing back box in recess. (A 1½" no 8 screw would do it) What is the recess made of?

 

[sparkwright]

Oval conduit would have done just as well, in fact less chasing required.

You can either push conduit slightly into knockout box, or just butt the conduit up to a grommetted hole.

You will get two 2.5 twin and earth cables in a 20 mm round conduit, but will need another conduit for the light switch cable.

Don't be tempted to strip the cables back to single cores, it's rough.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

If it is ok to do, does the cable have to run behind light switch back box? Or through it?

The cable to the socket needs to be within the permitted safe zones if buried within the wall, the socket plate will create the safe zone for the cable.

Untitled

• PrenticeBoyofDerry
• 16 Oct 2011
• 20

The regulation state that cables should be electrically connected to the accessory that creates the safe zone, if a cable is routed in this instance through a light switch backbox, it is not electrically connected to the socket circuit, so in my opinion the switch would not create a safe zone for the socket.

 

[JohnW2]

The regulation state that cables should be electrically connected to the accessory that creates the safe zone, if a cable is routed in this instance through a light switch backbox, it is not electrically connected to the socket circuit, so in my opinion the switch would not create a safe zone for the socket.

I doubt whether anyone would disagree with your opinion, but I don't think it's an issue for the OP. With both socket and switch (presumably both at least 85mm wide) 'vertically above/below one another' on a piece of wall only 100 mm wide (i.e. a maximum of 7.5 mm clearance on each side of the faceplates), I would think it essentially impossible for a cable going through the switch's backbox not to be within the safe zone created by the socket.

Kind Regards, John

 

[DetlefSchmitz]

I would think it essentially impossible for a cable going through the switch's backbox not to be within the safe zone created by the socket.

Kind Regards, John

yup

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

I would think it essentially impossible for a cable going through the switch's backbox not to be within the safe zone created by the socket.

I was just offering the advice on safe zones, but if we say the wall is 100mm wide and that a safe zone of 85mm is created by the accessory.
That could leave anything between 7.5mm and 15mm to route a cable, even if the cable did enter the backbox of the switch, the cable could still stray outside the safe zone. It is possible that the wall does not meet another wall, so essentially it is not impossible!

 

[JohnW2]

I would think it essentially impossible for a cable going through the switch's backbox not to be within the safe zone created by the socket.

I was just offering the advice on safe zones, but if we say the wall is 100mm wide and that a safe zone of 85mm is created by the accessory.
That could leave anything between 7.5mm and 15mm to route a cable, even if the cable did enter the backbox of the switch, the cable could still stray outside the safe zone.

If it entered the switch's backbox it would essentially have to be within the safe zone created by the socket when it entered the switch's box, and if the chase was even vaguely straight, it would presumably not 'stray' outside of the safe zone.

It is possible that the wall does not meet another wall, so essentially it is not impossible!

Few things in this world are totally impossible, but it is often sensible to let common sense prevail The 100 mm strip of available wall does not meet another wall - it is between a door frame and a wardrobe.

Kind Regards, John

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

If it entered the switch's backbox it would essentially have to be within the safe zone created by the socket when it entered the switch's box, and if the chase was even vaguely straight, it would presumably not 'stray' outside of the safe zone

If both switch and socket were in-line with each other, then you still have potential vertical wall area of 7.5mm-15mm where the cable could possibly run vertically outside the permitted zones, even if the cable did enter the switch backbox!
It may be within the zone as it enters the switch backbox but it could prior to entry and after exit, stray outside that zone.
So not impossible!