Can I enclose a freestanding washing machine?

[gregbbb]

Hi

I'm planning a new kitchen and have recently bought a new freestanding washing machine as the old one failed. I had hoped to enclose this behind a door in an empty carcass in the new kitchen. Is this recommended?

I am buying the kitchen from IKEA and they wouldn't recommend this (I can understand that as they wasnt to sell me an integrated appliance which is more expensive).

I enquired about doing the same thing with a fridge freezer and was told this wasn't safe as integrated fridge freezers vent differently to allow for being enclosed. Fair enough - I enclose my freestanding fridge freezer and it will prbably overheat and fail (if not worse). But is this also the case with washing machines?

Thanks in advance

 

[Diyisfun]

All you need to is ensure the cabinet can.
1 take the weight & vibration
2 adequate air flow to avoid condensation problems & to stop the motor overheating.

Cant think of other problems

 

[gregbbb]

When you say take the weight what do you mean exactly? The machine will sit directly on the floor with an empty carcass around it and a door an plinth on the front.

So long as it doesn't jump around too much and knock into the carcass the it should be ok in that department right?

I'm more worried about air flow.

 

[Diyisfun]

Air flow may/will be the problem.

 

[Sleepyhead]

For the washing machine :- No problem whatsoever. I've been to dozens installed behind a door and plinth. Depth is the only problem you may have.

 

[Diyisfun]

For the washing machine :- No problem whatsoever. I've been to dozens installed behind a door and plinth. Depth is the only problem you may have.

Would agree with that, but you need airflow.

 

[Sleepyhead]

Plenty of airflow. The plinth on a unit is set further back than the door. As there isn't a unit as such, only sides, there will be a gap between machine, plinth and door.

 

[Kes]

The units in our utility room were fitted to accomodate our Bosch free-standing w/m. I had to pull the units forwards to provide the required depth of machine, pipework etc, thus the w/top is 70 mm deep. The 'plinth' on the w/m is lower than the cab plinth, so the whole machine has to go behind the cab plinth, losing another 20 or 30 mm. Fixing the cabs back to the wall is then difficult and matching the cabs/worktop to taller 60mm deep units impossible. The virtual cabinet is 80 mm wide, yours may be different depending on your w/m but you need some side clearance.

The cabinet will have no floor or legs, so you will have to screw the sides to the adjacent cabs. You might be able to use part of the cab cross-bracing for support, but I couldn't, so you will need to get the width spot on.

The only real problem is that the w/m waltzes out of its cosy home when it's on, a blooming nuisance.

Oh yes, when you have a deeper w/top if you centralise the sink, hob, etc you may foul the rear cab bracing, especially with the taps and pipework, needs checking.

 

[Gees]

Don't forget that the machine will almost certainly have to be pulled out at some time for repair..... Don't " Build it in"or you will be in the position in which hundreds of folk have found themselves....
The blooming thing can't be removed without removing half of your new kitchen !!!