Can I still get 100w bulbs?

I have an old a Anglepoise Lamp that I use as a reading light. The bulb went. As it is for reading I would need a bright one. It says on it 100w Max. Is it still possibe to get these or what would be the modern equivalent? Its bayonet fit bulb. I am in the U.K. it stands on the floor. Its very tall to put on a desk
When swapping to LED bear in mind a bulb with a cool temperature such as 6000k or “daylight” will seem much brighter than a warm white bulb of around 2700k for the same wattage.

As others have said a 12w bulb would be a decent equivalent to a tungsten 100w
 
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The light emitting part of the lamp 20220603_113543_1.jpg tends to be mounted on a printed circuit also designed to remove heat, putting a globe in front of the chips be it candle or bulb shaped, will to some extent defuse the light, but still most goes forward in the direction the chip is pointing.

Filament lamps 1705322973375.jpeg have a spread more like the tungsten, but often a clear bulb, so not defused as with a pearl bulb, so it really matters as to orientation of the bulb.

So 8 bulbs like this, 20220415_000328_1.jpg shine up to white ceiling and are reflected from the ceiling giving a reasonable shadow free spread, but reverse it as with this lamp-landing_1.jpgexample and to get the spread the fitting needs to be high, this one over the stairs, the dangling bits do defuse the light a little, but not really enough, however it was got to look nice, more than to get the light required.

The first chandelier was fitted to replace a single 100 watt tungsten bulb, so 8 x 6 watt is 48 watt, so halved the power used, and it give a better spread of light. However no single LED bulb really would without changing the fitting replace the tungsten, this one 1705323754472.png rated at 24 watt, 2452 lumen is going to emit far more light to a 100 watt tungsten, but one £12.49 and two the wrong direction, we can google it for you but sure you could do the same without the link.
 
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Best case at 2m distance from a 100W incandescent lamp, it's 2 watts per m². An imperceptible amount.
Yes, I've just thought about the numbers.

Eric is always suggesting that incandescent bulbs radiate 'in all directions'. Whilst that is obviously not literally true, if one assumes that is is, then, since the area of a 2m radius sphere is about 50m², that would, as you say, represent only about 2 watts per m² at 2m from a 100W bulb, even if all of the electrical power were converted to IR (and none to light).

Kind Regards, John
 
I find the big problem with inferred is so hard to quantise the effects. One would need a flesh coloured receptor to measure the effect, and it would need to have a standard amount of moisture a kind of wet/dry reading to work it all out, and it would only be valid for the person it is modelled on. Lighter or darker skin, damper or drier skin, and the results are invalid.

However an Anglepoise Lamp one would think would be reasonably close.

Clearly a thermometer is not going to help, but I do know we had no problems with a programmer turning the central heating on/off and a single temperature thermostat regulating the temperature until the 6 x 60 watt tungsten bulbs were changed for first 6 x 11 watt CFL, then 10 x 8 watt CFL, then 10 x 3 watt LED and finally 10 x 5 watt LED.

We noted we felt cool in the evenings, during the day we were active, so 18ºC was fine, and with 360 watt of tungsten bulbs the central heating temperature at night was not altered, but as we dropped to 66 watt we noticed at night it was cool, and also seemed dimmer. So thermostat swapped for a programmable type, and in the evening we went to 20ºC.

The biggest problem was moving to Philips golf CFL as we also went from 6 x BC22d to 10 x E14 so could not return back easy, and the 8 watt bulbs would start with orange glow and slowly get brighter, but were never bright enough. So 66 watt to 80 watt and the result was a dimmer light.

However the move to 10 x 3 watt candle bulbs seemed brighter, however we could not read a book, hence change to 10 x 5 watt.

But I look are one area of the kitchen which was 65 watt fluorescent brighter than required, went to 58 watt fluorescent still a little brighter than required so going to 22 watt LED was fine for that area of the kitchen, son did not like the fitting so swapped it for 16 x 3 watt GU10 lamps, nearly back to the 58 watt of the fluorescent tube, but no where near as bright. I assume as not being reflected off white ceiling.

However same 3 watt GU10 lamps are fine for reading lamps, and one does wonder why anyone would use a 100 watt tungsten in an Anglepoise Lamp. The lamp is best suited to a directional lamp 1705334810737.png I have always used a reflector bulb as other wise the shade gets too hot, I went to website to look at max bulb size, actually took some finding, but does not give it for tungsten bulbs, it simply says
Bulb included: Yes
Bulb type & rating: 1x E27 LED – 6W
Bulb output: 470 Lumens / 2700 Kelvin
Bulb lifetime: 15,000 Hours use


Bulb replaceable: Yes
Max Bulb Rating: 10W LED E27
Dimmable: Yes - Additional electrical hardware required
that seems a lot short of 100 watt tungsten, I would normally use a 40 or 60 watt reflector bulb.
 
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I find the big problem with inferred is so hard to quantise the effects. One would need a flesh coloured receptor to measure the effect, and it would need to have a standard amount of moisture a kind of wet/dry reading to work it all out, and it would only be valid for the person it is modelled on. Lighter or darker skin, damper or drier skin, and the results are invalid.
Maybe, but if one knows that (as above) the maximum possible amount of absorbed IR is far too small to be particularly noticeable, then attempts to measure it are really irrelevant, aren't they?

Your body will presumably present an 'absorption area' far less that 1m², so the IR absorbed by you would presumably only be a fraction of a Watt?

Kind Regards, John
 
100w incandescent bulbs are still available.

As much as I like LED bulbs, I find the strobe effect with most/many to be really, really annoying. Years ago, I fitted new light fittings for a customer in their bathroom. The supplied halogen pumped out a lot of heat. The customer purchased (cheap) GU10 LEDS. The first time that I went for a pee in that room, rather than a stream, all I could see was individual droplets, very unnerving.

I do have a Festool work light that has virtually zero strobe effect (that I can see) but it is about £400 (list price) I do absolutely love the fact that it doesn't heat the room up.

I recently replaced two light fittings for my mum, each had 2x60w bulbs (a total of 240w). She replaced them with (really, really.really) expensive fittings, the type that use the massive fish bowl type bulbs. I think that they may be G125 8w LED.

I was not involved in the purchasing of them. I just fitted them. The room is really dark now. I have recommended that she email the manufacturer and ask what the maximum incandescent bulb is.
 
Go to a wholesalers and ask for a rough service 100W lamp


Agreed, although incandescent bulbs were supposed to have been banned, if you want one they are still available if classified as "rough" service. It does however mean that cost more to purchase..
 
Agreed, although incandescent bulbs were supposed to have been banned, if you want one they are still available if classified as "rough" service. It does however mean that cost more to purchase..
... and also, I think, that one cannot get 'pearl' ones?
 
I recently replaced two light fittings for my mum, each had 2x60w bulbs (a total of 240w). She replaced them with (really, really.really) expensive fittings, the type that use the massive fish bowl type bulbs. I think that they may be G125 8w LED. ... I was not involved in the purchasing of them. I just fitted them. The room is really dark now.
How many of these (probably) 8W LEDs are replacing the 240W worth of incandescents?

Kind Regards, John
 
How many of these (probably) 8W LEDs are replacing the 240W worth of incandescents?

Kind Regards, John

Only two.

Had my mum known that the lumens would be so pants, I don't think that she would have paid the best part of £800 for the two new light fittings.
Therein lies part of the problem, you replace existing fittings and blindly believe that LED version will be on par..
 
I am sure I could place the non pearl into the bead blaster at work, or put then in a pearl globe, but in real terms not worth the effort, we have at the end of the day do as we are told, the plus functions of the modern lamps, be it wifi control or PIR built in, with colour changing or inbuilt dimmer options mean at the end of the day we are better off using LED.

The ability of saying before I walk out of the door hey google turn on outside lights means the new lamps work far better than the old ones. Where either local cats set them off, or they auto switched off at most inopportune moment.

I walk around my house today an use voice commands without thinking of how just 20 years ago this was just in films this could happen, we watched kirk saying hey computer do this or that as if it were some magic trick, now we do it.
 
Only two.
Ah - 16W of LED (if that's what it is) is obviously not much of a match for 240W of incandescents.
Had my mum known that the lumens would be so pants, I don't think that she would have paid the best part of £800 for the two new light fittings.
Therein lies part of the problem, you replace existing fittings and blindly believe that LED version will be on par..
You (particularly she) have my sympathy.

Kind Regards, John
 
As much as I like LED bulbs, I find the strobe effect with most/many to be really, really annoying.
Inside of a failed candle LED bulb, 1705399671068.png1705399535367.png one it shows although a candle bulb, all LED's face away from base, but also second picture shows the reasonably large smoothing capacitor which should stop the strobe effect.

I have seen the strobe effect, but would assume that is a faulty bulb.
 

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