candy cdi 1012 integrated dishwasher stops mid cycle

[atghawkins]

hi,
i'm having a problem with my dishwasher,when i put it on a cycle (happens on all cycles) about 10 minutes in, it stops ,there is water in the bottom which isn't hot and the tablet drawer isn't open , i then put it on a rinse and the water clears out , could it be the element??
thanks in advance

Allan H

 

[zipper]

Yes it could be a faulty element but it could also be a defective heater relay on the pcb, a break in wiring or bad connection in the heater circuit, or a faulty NTC. You could start by checking the heater resistance (should be somewhere between 20 & 25 ohms). If you require further information please state the product code on the door label, it should look something like this: 32900240.

 

[atghawkins]

zipper thanks for quick reply!!

i wouldn't know about checking heater resistance!! but i can tell you the product code its :MOD. CDI 1012/1-80 :32900082 0638 2299
would you know were i can locate the thermostat on this model??
they don't seem to cost too much so i could start with replacing that first!!

thanks again!
Allan H

 

[zipper]

Before I can answer you questions could you look at the rear of the machine (at the bottom/centre of the tank). Do you see a protrusion at the bottom of the tank that's covered with a plastic casing? If you have one it ought be above & to the right of of the inlet hose (dead centre). There were several modifications on these models & I don't want to give you any wrong information.

 

[zipper]

Forget the post above, I'm pretty sure what we have here now.
The heater element is mounted vertically in the pipe that feeds water to the upper spray arm, & the heater terminals can be accessed by removing the plastic cover at the back of the tank. There is a pressure sensor screwed in the bottom of the tank (they do malfunction occasionally). Your machine needs to fill min 4 litres of water to function correctly, underfilling could cause wash motor cavitation & in turn prompt the pressure sensor to cut heater supply. There is temp-sensor (NTC) it is mounted in the sump & a malfunction could cause a no-heat problem, but these don't fail very often. So you need to eliminate possible component faults one by one until the culprit is found. I would attack it as follows: check heater resistance (if you can), then check for underfilling, pressure sensor function, wiring issues, & NTC integrity....if everything checks out ok then the pcb is faulty. To put it into cost: a new heater would put you back around 20 pounds, pressure switch 12, NTC 10, & pcb 70.

 

[atghawkins]

zipper thanks for your help but i'm in over my head here i think its time to call in a pro!! i took off the grey plastic mount and what i see is the terminals but i don't wanna risk damaging the machine even more!

thanks again
Allan H

 

[donster22]

hi. i've got the exact same problem. it's a long time ago but do you remember what the fault was in the end?
thanks, don