CANDY GO1282 WASHING MACHINE WILL NOT DO ANYTHING !!!!!

[welshviking]

I have a candy go1282 washing machine that has stopped mid cycle and i found the electrics in the house had tripped ( not sure if it was the washer or something else that tripped the electrics), now it will not do anything as the door lock indicator is flashing constantly even when the door is shut, we have changed the door interlock electrical switch with a brand new one but still nothing will work on any cycle setting....please can you help?

 

[zipper]

It tripped your rcd or a fuse?
Was the old door switch defective...did it look a little charred? When door switches short-circuit they have an annoying habit of wiping out the pcb at the same time. Have you checked the pcb for blown components/tracks, or signs of heat damage?

 

[welshviking]

Hi Thanks for the reply, the rcd tripped i am almost certain it was caused by the washing machine as it seems to much of a coincidance. The old door switch actually looked fine as far as i could see but i replaced it as i thought it was the switch at fault. Too be honest i have not checked the pcb as i am not 100% sure where it is situated, if i can find out i will remove it and have a look, but bear in mind am i only a novice so anything too complicated is out of my league

 

[zipper]

If the rcd tripped then I would suspect an earth fault in the heater circuit caused it (most probably the element itself). Any one of the electrical components shorting out could cause pcb damage, not just the door switch. I think you need to check both the heater element & pcb.

 

[welshviking]

Ok i think i know where the heater elemant is (behind rear cover at the bottom) but not sure where the pcb is ? Cheers

 

[zipper]

Pcb is just under the lid on right hand side of the machine (lots of wires going to it, remember to put them all back in the same place). Pull the plug before doing anything else

 

[welshviking]

Ok looking at the heater elemant, removed the 3 wires (2 reds & earth) and looks like it is held in by 3 nuts, do you just remove them and it slides out. I will check the pcb after i have looked at the elemant...Cheers again for you help.

Sorry ignore this, found out that the elemant is only held in by the middle nut, i have checked the elemant and too me it looks fine

 

[zipper]

Don't remove the element before testing it. I take it you don't have a multimeter? do you know anyone who has? The element should measure around 25 - 30 ohms cold. Then flip the multimeter onto the highest resistance scale & try measuring it to earth (a 500v megger would be the correct instrument to use but you may be able to register some earth leakage with a multimeter on its highest scale). Does any of this make sense???

 

[welshviking]

Yes it does make sense but unfortnately i have no longer got a multimeter also it looks like it is well beyond my capabilties, i will have a word with one of the electricians in work to see if he will come to test it and take a look at the pcb while he is here...Thanks for the help anyway it was much appreciated

 

[zipper]

I see you type as fast as you work! A heater element can have an earth fault & still appear undamaged. That is why it is important to verify the fact by testing it. If you already have the element out then take it to work & ask the electrician to megger test it there.
While you're inside the machine anyhow it doesn't harm to take a look at the motor brushes for excessive wear.

 

[welshviking]

I was cheating as my wife was doing the typing while i was looking at the washer, anyway removed the pcb just to see if i could see anything obvious...and look what i found (looks like TC3 has blown and destroyed most of the tracking around it also the tracking at the top of the board J12 J13 J14 has burnt out)

View media item 23840

 

[zipper]

I kind of imagined you had a screwdriver in one hand and a laptop in the other!
Photo's a bit out of focus but I see what you mean. If you post a good close-up of both sides of the board & the details printed on the pcb case I will try to identify the root problem. Can't promise anything but I'll try. It could be as simple as the the heater relay/tracks are blown & that caused your issue. But often another shorted component can easily take out the pcb. So replacing the pcb before first verifying that the other electrical components are intact can soon become a very expensive affair

 

[welshviking]

I will try to take a couple of decent photos in a minute, the details on the case are

INVENSYS
4R
5594CC
48/07
41026074-GA11E09


ANOTHER NUMBER ON THE CASE IS 31001953

Untitled

• welshviking
• 28 Jun 2010
• 1

Untitled

• welshviking
• 28 Jun 2010
• 1

Untitled

• welshviking
• 28 Jun 2010
• 1

 

[zipper]

Ok...here we go.
TC3 is the drain pump triac.
J11 & J12 is the feed for the heater element (230v output).
J13-14-& 15 relate to the pressostat circuit (local damage here is likely to be caused by a flashover from J11 & J12 since the terminals are in such close proximity).
I would suggest the folowing;
Get your electrician to check the heater element resistance & IR value at 500v DC. If TC3 is blown it doesn't necessarily mean that the pump is bad but it is worth checking just in case. You could hook up a flex cable with a fused plug with 2 spade connectors & hotwire the pump to see if it runs ok (I imagine it will). Alternatively remove the pump & get the electrician to bench test that as well. You may be lucky & find that the heater (and pump) are fine & the problem is entirely down to the pcb. But it doesn't hurt to hedge your bets & get it all checked out before rushing out to buy a new pcb. One more important thing; take a good look at the connector plugs to the damaged parts of the pcb. They may be heat damaged as well, in which case you will probably have to partially replace the wiring harness. Hope this helps, let me know how you get on

 

[welshviking]

Many thanks for all your help, i will show the electrician in work what you have suggested, and will let you know the outcome......thanks again Colin