CAR BATTERY - WHAT IS COVERED UNDER WARRANTY??

[RONCHAM]

I bought a Yuasa 12V 45Ah car battery on 30th May 2023 for my Toyota Corolla from a major supplier on a major selling site (I won’t name names but there isn't many) . This is the same brand fitted to the car when new which served me well for many years. On receipt I charged the battery as directed.

My car has reliably started instantly first time, every time, for 20 years. The car did not have an MoT so was started without problem about every two weeks (probably a total of 5-6 times) and run for about 10 minutes or so. The battery leads were then disconnected. All was fine until the beginning of August then suddenly I had difficulty starting the car. I removed the battery to charge it and found it only registered 6V?? It refused to charge at 12V, various voltages from 6V to 12V, and at various low amp settings. My car alternator was checked and was about 14V which I understand is normal. I had followed this same procedure with a previous brand new battery without any mishap.

The battery had a 4 years warranty through another company so I submitted a Warranty Claim Form. In reply I was given some baffling battery jargon - it was suggested failure could be due to deep or over cycling, or parasitic drain, none of which are covered by the warranty. And possibly sulphation had occurred. Also, any battery that measures less than 10.6 volts is not covered under warranty.

I have to wonder what is covered by the warranty as a drop in voltage is probably the only reason the battery is likely to fail - unless it’s dropped from a great height! The battery cost £60 and I was offered a 10% discount on another battery which I considered derisory.

I subsequently bought the same battery from another supplier and carried on with the same procedure above without any problem so far.

Can anyone suggest a more plausible reason for this battery failure?

 

[Alec_t]

If inevitable discharge (due e.g. to the car's electronics in standby) had taken the battery voltage down below 10V over a fortnight with the car out of use then battery damage would likely have occurred. Some battery chargers won't start charging if the battery voltage is below some threshold.

 

[norseman]

I'm assuming from your text that you bought the battery on-line which can be a problem if an issue develops with a product as bulky/heavy as a car battery.
Warranty periods on car batteries are something of a grey area & it's not always clear as to exactly what is included, but generally it's defects in manufacture. The fact that you disconnect the lead(s) when the car isn't in use would rule out a parasitic drain, so it does appear that the battery is faulty.

Nevertheless your contract is with the supplier not the manuf. & you have consumer rights under 'distance selling' regulations, so I would seek advice from Trading Standards.

 

[robinbanks]

As you've already replaced the battery it's perhaps moot but it's definitely a struggle getting battery warranties honoured because it's just so easy for a user to kill them by deep discharge.. Unless it's lithium but they're another level of expense

Perhaps, as this faulty one should appear as new, if you'd bought the identical replacement (for your other vehicle which also takes the same battery) without mentioning the faulty one it would then be a case of "this battery you just sold me won't charge over 10.5 volts - can I return it for a refund?" Slightly disingenuous, but no less than they're now being by claiming no warranty because you killed it when you know you've taken better care of it than most

 

[Mottie]

Perhaps, as this faulty one should appear as new, if you'd bought the identical replacement (for your other vehicle which also takes the same battery) without mentioning the faulty one it would then be a case of "this battery you just sold me won't charge over 10.5 volts - can I return it for a refund?" Slightly disingenuous, but no less than they're now being by claiming no warranty because you killed it when you know you've taken better care of it than most

Batteries are usually date-stamped.

 

[ReganAndCarter]

Don't forget to leave battery company a negative review.

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

I'm assuming from your text that you bought the battery on-line which can be a problem if an issue develops with a product as bulky/heavy as a car battery.
Warranty periods on car batteries are something of a grey area & it's not always clear as to exactly what is included, but generally it's defects in manufacture. The fact that you disconnect the lead(s) when the car isn't in use would rule out a parasitic drain, so it does appear that the battery is faulty.

I only buy batteries from Tanya, they honour the warranties without fail. My car battery died just with just one month to run, and they replaced it without any fuss at all.

If the OP was regularly starting the car, and only running it for ten minutes, likely the battery was gradually depleted by the starting, and not enough time running to put it back in. Sulphation will then, ultimately, wreck the battery. OP should have regularly brought the battery up to a full charge, with a decent mains charger.

 

[norseman]

If the OP was regularly starting the car, and only running it for ten minutes, likely the battery was gradually depleted by the starting, and not enough time running to put it back in. Sulphation will then, ultimately, wreck the battery. OP should have regularly brought the battery up to a full charge, with a decent mains charger.

Couldn't agree more. Our daily has a more potent battery (diesel spec.) than is listed for the petrol variant, but because it does a lot of short journeys I still fully charge it via the mains at around 6 week intervals during the summer.

Now that winter is coming it will be done every month.

 

[RONCHAM]

Thank you for all the replies.

I did not "regularly" start the car but just 5-6 occasions over a 2 month period before the battery failed. The battery was disconnected each time so a parasitic leak seems unlikely. And my car had started immediately first time - I would not expect this to "deep discharge" a fully charged brand new battery? I did not check the voltage after the initial first charge but supposed it was fully charged as my charger has an auto shut-off. In the past I have been away for periods of 3 weeks and again my car always started first time without any problem.

Although £60 is not insignificant I hate the hassle of long-winded claims under warranties unless a very substantial sum is involved. In any event the supplier said they would not debate the matter as the warranty is very clear ie the warranty is void once the battery has been discharged below 10.6V. They said I had only 30 days to claim it was unfit for purpose and any transit damage would need to be reported within 7 days. They would also reject any claim under eBay's returns policy.

I won't name the supplier as I wouldn't be surprised if they started a libel action! Suffice to say it is one of just a couple of major suppliers on eBay. Another is Tayna from whom I bought the next battery (for the same car) - I'm glad to hear they are more honourable. So far there has been no problem following the same procedure above although I now check the battery voltage each time.

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

I did not "regularly" start the car but just 5-6 occasions over a 2 month period before the battery failed. The battery was disconnected each time so a parasitic leak seems unlikely. And my car had started immediately first time - I would not expect this to "deep discharge" a fully charged brand new battery? I did not check the voltage after the initial first charge but supposed it was fully charged as my charger has an auto shut-off. In the past I have been away for periods of 3 weeks and again my car always started first time without any problem.

It does neither the battery, nor the engine, any good at all doing that. Ordinary car batteries are designed for a short, heavy discharge, then an immediate recharge to full. The engine also needs to be got up to temperature, to burn off condensation, and combustion products.

 

[norseman]

Interesting that, despite the experience you've just been through, you have again chosen the internet for your next purchase. On-line prices for comparable items are often lower, but as you have discovered can be negated by difficulties in returning faulty goods. Like most of us I buy on-line but not something as weighty & expensive to return as a vehicle battery.

My last, a Bosch bought just under two years ago, came from a local nationwide supplier & with a bit of haggling I got it for the stated internet price .. if it goes bad I can simply take it back.

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

Tayna is also an online supplier, but they do honour the warranty. I've bought a number of batteries from them over the years, they are quite competitive as well as supplying a wide range of batteries, they have a wide range of qualities. The warranty return procedure, is one of.. you order/pay for a new battery, then pay for the return of the faulty, in the same packaging. If they then confirm the returned battery is faulty, they refund the battery and it's return cost.

 

[RONCHAM]

Unfortunately I didn't have any choice as my car was not road legal at the time and I anticipated the MoT in a few weeks. It was a procedure I'd done before without any problem. I ran my car for about 10 minutes in which time it was up to temperature. Of course many people use their cars for very short journeys although they may charge it at intervals (but I doubt it!). I've bought from Tayna before and been happy with the purchase - their online price direct was the same as on eBay. You don't really expect any problem with a reputable brand battery from a reputable supplier.

The last time I bought from a local supplier I had to carry the battery a few hundred yards to the bus stop - and they're quite heavy or I'm very weak?!

 

[carmanmemoranda]

I'm a bit confused on this.

Has the "faulty" battery been returned and claim rejected? Or just been rejected without being returned.

From experience faulty batteries are always an emotive subject. Most failures (apart from within the first few days) are generally not a battery fault but an issue on the car, or its use.

Wouldn't even consider buying an item like a battery, or even an alternator online. But accept that in most circumstances it would be OK. But when it goes potentially faulty, it becomes a major issue over the sake of probably £10 or so.

If you still have the battery get it charged and get it tested locally. Not just a voltage test either, but a proper test

 

[RONCHAM]

Thanks for your interest. No, the battery wasn't returned, but having mentioned it registered 6V the supplier and warranty firm immediately said that a reading lower than 10.6V voids the warranty. I didn't check the voltage after the initial charge but it must have been fine as I started the car 5 or 6 times thereafter without problem.

I'm not sure what "magic" charger a garage might use but mine is reasonably sophisticated, it charges various battery types and the voltage and amp settings can be changed - I've tried various combinations. I know some people would pursue this to the Supreme Court but I'm writing it off to experience. I would imagine only a very small percentage of batteries are faulty.