Carpentry for Glazed porch- quick or clever?

[twm.bwen]

Hi there I'm soon going to start on the carpentry stage of my porch (1.8mx1m, twin pitched clay tile roof on wooden frame and glazing on .8m high sandstone dwarf wall).

What I need to know is how most people construct the frame, do they just butt and screw all joints or do they do more ellaborate joints.

If so what joints? I assume mortice and tenon the uprights into the dwarf wall plate, but what about fixing the upper wall plate to the main corner uprights? (dovetail tenon?)

Also when it comes to the sill/wall plate can I buy shaped wood or do I shape it myself, and if the corners are morticed how do I make it a strong enough joint so I can tennon the corners into it?

Anywebsites/books that could be usefull?
Thanks for any info/pointers,
TOm

 

[big-all]

you can buy some ready made components like cills
better to make your own though

if you have a table saw router mitre saw mortice chisel

http://www.technologystudent.com/joints/joindex.htm

 

[twm.bwen]

Luckily I do have all the moentioned tools, so will rebate all post etc for glazing and have worked out how i can make a cill (just thought it may be easier to buy one!)

Excellent link for the various joints, thanks, but I'm still not sure what joints should be used where.

I was thinking of fixing the cills onto the dwarf wall and using tennons to fix the uprights. I was then thinking of using dovetails to fix the wall plate to the corner posts.
Is this correct or overkill, would most people just butt and screw everything?

 

[big-all]

well yes buy the cill as long as the proportions are what you want

dont forget your cappilery groove on the cill


and if you have openers 7 degree angle like the cill on all bottom edges

you make the windows up seperatly to the building
you can butt and screw the window components together but you would need to make a new window in between 5 and 10 years as the screws rust and the components work loose
if you dont have openers it will probably last 5 years longer as the strain on any component is minimal
thats assuming you re paint before the waterproof breaks down

you can cut a mortar groove to seat the window in cement or folding wedges and screws before the glazing goes in

 

[JFC]

I would mortice and tenon every joint on the frame and windows/doors .

 

[twm.bwen]

Excellent advice on both accounts, Thanks,

one further but basic thing, I forgot to ask about timber. Considering it will be painted (and therefore presumeably waterproof) what sort of timber should I use, is jewson basic white or red pine ok, or should I be spending more and on what wood.

Also, Aluminium/ zinc primer, red oxide, or just screwfix multipurpose primer?

Thanks
Again,
tom

 

[JFC]

I haven't shopped at Jewson for years but i think their timber is white wood . You would be better going to a timber yard and buying a joinery grade redwood . Also for the little extra cost a hardwood cill would be a good idea . As for primer , just an oilbased wood primer will do but others may have better ideas on that .