I wish to fit flush mounted ceiling lights into my new kitchen. Part of the roof void is only 4 x 2 joists so the builder has said I need to look out for some lights which would be ok to fit into this void. Where do you suggest I start looking for this type of light??
Ceiling lights
- Thread starter mackandmutley
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4" x 2"??
Your problem is going to be that the lights will need to be fire-rated, unless you have a compartmented ceiling void that will avoid the spread of fire.
And most down lights will have anything between 100mm and 140mm depth of the body of the fitting.
Does it really need to be downlights?
And most down lights will have anything between 100mm and 140mm depth of the body of the fitting.
Does it really need to be downlights?
found these:
http://www.screwfix.com/p/fixed-bru...ire-rated-downlight-contractor-pack-12v/73693
They have a 80mm depth on them, so if you ceiling thickness is 12.5mm plus.
You will have about 32-35mm to play with between fitting and floorboards above.
http://www.screwfix.com/p/fixed-bru...ire-rated-downlight-contractor-pack-12v/73693
They have a 80mm depth on them, so if you ceiling thickness is 12.5mm plus.
You will have about 32-35mm to play with between fitting and floorboards above.
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They seem fine to me, would 20 of them be enough to light a 5m x 5m kitchen do you think?
Do you know what fitting limitations there are with these lights with regard to insulation etc?
Do you know what fitting limitations there are with these lights with regard to insulation etc?
Insulation cannot be placed near or above this type of light fitting.
35mm space above them is extremely unlikely to provide enough ventilation - most lights of this type require a minimum of a 150mm void, which for 80mm depth lights would require at least 70mm space above them.
As already mentioned, 4x2 timbers would be exceptionally small for a ceiling. What is above it? Is this a new construction or existing?
If you work on the principals that you install your first light at least 800mm form wall to prevent shadows over units, then at about 800-1200mm a part from there on.
You should be okay with 4 rows of 4.
I don't know the whole spec on these lights and there is no detailed spec available on the screwfix website.
Some lights will allow for insulation to cover them, some don't.
It maybe worth giving screwfix technical team up and see if they can, excuse the pun spread a little more light on it.
You should be okay with 4 rows of 4.
I don't know the whole spec on these lights and there is no detailed spec available on the screwfix website.
Some lights will allow for insulation to cover them, some don't.
It maybe worth giving screwfix technical team up and see if they can, excuse the pun spread a little more light on it.
TWENTY DOWNLIGHTS are you crazy????????
20 downlights each at 50 watts.
That is 1000 watts.
A room 5m x 5m can normally be adequately lit by a single 60 watt lamp.
1000watts is the same as an electric fan heater like this http://www.amazon.co.uk/Creda-1kW-Compact-Downflow-Heater/dp/B002E1AMNI
And you'll still need extra light under the cupboards. Those things are called DOWN lights for a reason.
Have you not thought about the cost of running a kilowatt of lighting in he most used room in the house?
Let alone the iceberg you'll melt through global warming effects.
THIS would provide more than adequate lighting for your kitchen, at a tenth of the running cost.
Don't cut any holes yet.
Bas will be along some time, I expect.
As well as good advice he has some pictures of really attractive fluorescent lighting.
Bas will be along some time, I expect.
As well as good advice he has some pictures of really attractive fluorescent lighting.
Almost.
No doubt now changed to some nominal metric size roughly equivalent to which:
a) results in a 50% increase in the sawmills profit margin
b) is still pronounced "fourbetwo".
c) is made of stuff which looks superficially like proper wood, but only has about ⅓rd the number of growth rings per inch (or per cm if you prefer) that actual proper wood has.
Start by looking at kitchens which have this type of lighting already. Not in a showroom with daylight coming through the large windows but a normal kitchen in the evening or early morning where the only light is from the lights in the ceiling. Imagine your self actually working in the kitchen, look for shadows as you move around, is there enough light at the work surface when you are standing at it ?
About the only good thing about them is they provide under floor heating for the room above.
Not sure of the link between power used by a lamp vs. lumen output, was just asking as to whether any of the professional electricians has experience of wiring in downlighters recently in a similiar sized space and if so how many were there??
I'm not in agreement by the way that this space could be adequately lit by a 60w bulb either, 20K kitchen refit finished off with a £1.50 lighting upgrade, the jury's out on that idea.
I'm not in agreement by the way that this space could be adequately lit by a 60w bulb either, 20K kitchen refit finished off with a £1.50 lighting upgrade, the jury's out on that idea.
It's not possible to answer that because you don't say what the reflectance of the horizontal surfaces is.
For example, if the work surfaces and floor were in white marble, you would expect reflectances to be ~70%. 70% of the light falling on the horizontal surfaces is reflected upwards to light the ceiling plus some to the walls that also get lit. In turn, the wall and ceiling surfaces reflect light. If they were painted white, you'd end up with a nice bright kitchen.
On the other hand, if the floor and work surfaces were black granite, reflectance would be down below 10%. Little light would be reflected onto the walls and ceiling and the kitchen would look rather dim with a night sky effect.
Downlighters are all very well in sitting rooms and bedrooms, but not at all appropriate for kitchens which need a good level of light.
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