Central Heating

Looking at picture http://allyoucanupload.webshots.com/v/2001173143539993472 there are two pipes joining onto the large one coming out of the bottom of the pipe.

I think the smaller one is the 15mm Feed pipe from the F&E (small tank) in the loft

I think the larger one is the 22mm Vent pipe which curves over the top of the F&E tank and will vent steam or water in the event of a blockage or overheating.

The blockage will almost certainly be in the T where the 15mm F&E pipe joins the pipe from the pump.

If you hold a magnet against it, you can expect to find that the magnet is attracted to the coper pipe at that point. this is because the black sediment if from corrosion of the iron in your radiators.

You have to cut out this joint, and either poke it clean or fit a new piece. It is difficult to solder or unsolder wet pipes so you will probably find it easier to remake the joint with compression brass fittings. these are moe expensive but you will only be using a few. You can also take compression joints apart in future if it ever blocks again.

As for the pump, there are valves on the pipes going into it. If these are not jammed, you can close them and undo the pump connectors, your pump looks quite modern so you should find a replacement pump of the same type fits straight in.

In your case, you can drain the upper part of the system (if it is not already dry) so you can take the pump off even if the valves are seized. If they are seized, put new valves on while you are doing this job ( a pump has moving parts so needs occasional replacement).

Also, buy a litre of Sentinel X400, which is a cleaning chemical that will loosen remaining black sludge and sediment so that it can be drained away, and Sentinel X100 which is a corrosion inhibitor to prevent it happening again. Do not add the chemicals until you have repaired and tested the system so that you do not have to drain it out again.

If you can possibly afford it, and if, as I think, the cause is black sediment, also buy a Magnaclean which is a device that traps and holds circulating black particles and prevents then accumulating into a blockage. It will cost you £100 or less.

There are also chemicals made by Fernox which is another excellent brand. Cheaper ones may not be as good.
 
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Thanks again mate have investigated that pipes you mention below the pump on using a magnet (see below) i have found it sticks to the pipe just below the pump and above that 15m pipe .
The photo's i am uploading are of above and below the pump and the have a tap type fixture are these cut of valves for the water supply ? .
If i remember quite rightly i put in a cut off valve to the kitchen to upstair's water supply's as to not disrupt the missus in the kitchen if ever needing todo work upstair's .



The little black and white disk is the magnet on the pipe :
 
Not sure where the upward pointing branch here
Temp2.jpg


is going. Can you tell? Assuming the arrows ar correct of course..

F and V on here

temp-1.jpg


look like feed and vent. DO they both go up to the cistern in the loft?
If so search the green shaded area with your magnet. If you find any attraction, drain, remove the pump, put your magnet aganst a long screwdriver and poke it down the pipe. Hopefully it will come out with any loose material attached.
Next cut F where the bloue line is, and poke about. Normally that's all there is, but sometimes some ni the Vent too.
 
Right gotta pick the sprogs up from school .
But chris that upward pointing branch goes nowhere just above that picture it stops and has a Bung in place .
and have checked with the magnet around F and V pipes and it doesnt stick to pipe .
only pipe it sticks to is in above picture .
 
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1) The "taps" above and below the pump are pump isolating valves, used to allow you to change the pump without draining down the system.

2) I agree with ChrisR - in your case, you can take the pump off and you may be able to poke out the blockage without cutting the pipes :)

Remember that there will be lumps of sediment blockage floating about in the system, so a chemical clean and Magnaclean will be very handy to prevent another clog or damage to the new pump (which will really, really annoy you :mad: ).

the isolator for upstairs hot water sounds like it is for the taps, so will not affect this circulating water.
 
Just checked F and V pipe and they are as you say going to the smaller tank in the loft .. this tank also has a lot of bits floating in the tank itself .
 
You can bail out the F&E tank and sponge it clean (with the supply off). this prevents muck being washed down into the rads.

Sounds like you need that chemical clean.
 
Just looked in the main fuse box i have switches for :

downstair lights / Light's up / Sockets left / sockets right / cooker and Water Heater . I presume Water Heater switch will turn off the power to the Honeywell circuit box that pump etc connects to ?
 
Don't count on it. It's more likely the immersion heater. there ought to be a fused switch on the wall next to your boiler, that should control the boiler, its controls and its pump.
 
Ok drained the rad's downstair's tie'd the ballcock But tank is not empty'ing due to the pipe blockage where the magnet is in this pic i Guess ? .
 
bale it out with a mug into a bucket, and sponge out the remaining sludge.

There must be a blockage in the 15mm pipe as well.
 
Do you not have a 15mm gate valve somewhere in the cold fill from the f&e tank?

If not bale out tank the cut 15mm feed with bucket and towels handy. Then fit a gate valve for future use. As system is empty I would replace all and not just 'poke' out blockage.
 
went and bought a magnetic pickup tool from halford's quite a handy thing . anyhow the pick that chrisr done his magic pen on the whole of that green area is full of magnetic sludge !! .
so i'm thinking maybe replace that whole area cut back the piping and replace using compression fitting's ? how does that sound ?
 
thank's for all your help guy's great to find this forum .
will go and buy the gear tmrw and be in touch.
Any tip's very much welcome ;)
 

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