Central Heating

Hi guy's

Got all my compression joint's needed and piping etc .
Just bale'd out the tank and this is what it look's like at the bottom .
 
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here's where i was going to make my cut's .. does this seem ok . the magnet stick's around both the "T" joint's and marked my cut on the pump pipe where there is no attraction to the magnet .
 
looks OK. You are cutting on the straight parts, rather than on a bend, which will make it easier to rejoin.

Now sponge out the remaining muck from the F&E.
 
i bought 2x compression T's 1 22m equal and 1 x2 22mm with a 15mm and for the bends i was going to use Elbow's would this be ok rather than a bent pipe ?
and also bought isolating valve in case of any future probs to shut off the tank .
 
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elbows are OK (though they will block more easily if you don't cure the corrosion problem). You can get a swept bend in copper soldered fittings which is an easier bend.

If you hadn't already bought the bits I would have suggested assembling the relacement part using soldered copper and doing the final connections to old pipes with compression brass (would be a bit cheaper) you can do this as only the final connection involves wet pipes which are a problem to solder.
 
Rebuilt the pipe work flushed out the system and then installed new pump and actuator yesterday . Put a bottle of sludge and flux remover into the system via tank and then refilled as instruction's said .
O first filling the system i was still getting no hot water and heating so bled the rad's and left over night as i have now returned to my shift's and working night's at present . I today bled all rad's one by one draining 1 jug of water from each wich came out clear . Then hit the heating switch left it for a few min's and bled of another half jug or untill all air came through this has resulted in a change from clear to black water. Afew cough's and splurts and few little rumble's in the pipe work and all heating has restored and hot water is now coming back through .
Now as i'm on night's i was going to leave the sludge and flux remover in over the weekend and flush the system on monday due to me working and then was thinking of putting the x100 into the system .. Does this sound ok or do i need to drain earlier ?
 
If its X400 or X300 then no probs. If stronger as in X800 then I wouldn't.
 
Got it from our local plumb trade counter , the guy gave me their equivallent of X400 that aparently all the plumbers in the area use so took that as he had no X400 in stock . Did ask what the difference was I,E if it was stronger etc .. he said no different to X400 .
 
ha ha!

you can leave X400 in for a week or two, it just loosens more of the black.

If you can afford a Magnaclean it will trap the black so you can take it away without needing to drain and keep circulating the X400 until no more appears.
 
cheers john ;) ... unfortuanately my budget didnt allow for the Magnaclean little Gem straightaway ... im looking at getting that in the next week or so and having ti fitted i'm hoping that untill then finger's X that i dont have any more Hic'ups .
 
Although the merits of a magna clean are undisputed, they are not designed to be used instead of a powerflush, only as an extra to keep the system clean afterwards, as stated by most reputable boiler manufacturers ;)
 
.. but, used in conjunction with a simple X400 flush, they will catch the circulating loosened black stuff, and continue catching it after you've drained and refilled with inhibitor. What they catch can't get into the pump or settle anywhere else. This is better than using X400 alone.

I did one on my old mum's system recently and was very pleased with the results. The water is now clear and the magnet is picking up very little (I drained, flushed and refiled with inhibitor).

So I reckon they're worth having even if you don't powerflush (and spend hundreds more).
 
Until they block because of so much crap in the system and diy bod can't be bothered to clean them out :eek:

X400 holds crap in suspension until expelled.
 

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