Hi. I've scanned the forums and not quickly found a solution unfortunately.
Hot water only works fine.
Hot water and CH together works fine for a period of time then can lock out and boiler tries 3 times to refire then shuts down.
CH on it's own doesn't work at all. Doesn't even try to fire up. Red light on boiler control panel.
Motorised valves seem to be working fine. If CH only is selected and I move the HW motorised valve over to manual, the system fires up, but shuts down as soon as I allow the HW motorised valve to return.
If CH and HW are selected, system works fine initally, if you then turn HW off, it's shuts down immediately.
Boiler type Potterton Suprema 60.
Valves are Myson power extra.
It had an issue with the boiler locking out (shutting down) also. I've removed the circuit board and re-soldered to fix any dry joints. Refitted and there was no apparent change. The system will still eventually lock out so I don't think I achieved anything there, if there was a problem or not.
A new circuit board is an option, but I feel the problem also lies elsewhere. Maybe it is more than one issue. I don't want to fork out for a new circuit board when it might be another issue.
The circuit board shows signs of very mild scorching around a couple of diodes, but nothing severe, shall we say a "tanned" mark.
Thanks for any suggestions.
Hot water only works fine.
Hot water and CH together works fine for a period of time then can lock out and boiler tries 3 times to refire then shuts down.
CH on it's own doesn't work at all. Doesn't even try to fire up. Red light on boiler control panel.
Motorised valves seem to be working fine. If CH only is selected and I move the HW motorised valve over to manual, the system fires up, but shuts down as soon as I allow the HW motorised valve to return.
If CH and HW are selected, system works fine initally, if you then turn HW off, it's shuts down immediately.
Boiler type Potterton Suprema 60.
Valves are Myson power extra.
It had an issue with the boiler locking out (shutting down) also. I've removed the circuit board and re-soldered to fix any dry joints. Refitted and there was no apparent change. The system will still eventually lock out so I don't think I achieved anything there, if there was a problem or not.
A new circuit board is an option, but I feel the problem also lies elsewhere. Maybe it is more than one issue. I don't want to fork out for a new circuit board when it might be another issue.
The circuit board shows signs of very mild scorching around a couple of diodes, but nothing severe, shall we say a "tanned" mark.
Thanks for any suggestions.