Complete CH install advise.

[Dan1261]

Doing the actual work about 2 hours so far. Only one on the wall with pipework run out of the room in 15mm waiting for the next room to be done. Didn't want to do too much over winter as the next step requires the boiler being turned off for good. Be all go in about a month when we can do without having for a month.

Thats fair enough. Thats why i'm planning on doing the whole system without the need for a current boiler being in place. I think a couple of days to remove all the old stuff and replace, re-route all he new should be enough, especially as I'll have pretty good access & and plus I know where the new boiler is the be installed I can runn all pipework (with plenty of surplus) to he area of the new boiler placement which again in turn should make things easier when the time comes to actually get someone in to fit the boiler and get it up and running.

Good luck with it mate. Let me know how you get on.

 

[Dan1261]

Just whilst i'm thinking about it... I'll be running the pipework under the floor downstairs, through the wall and above the ceiling (below the upstairs floor) however I'm guessing it'd be a good idea to insulate the Speedfit PEX barrier pipework??? Or is it ok without??

 

[rob_j20]

I'm insulating a long run upstairs purely because I plan on pushing the pipe through from front of house to the back, the insulation will protect the pipe and it will be supported on the plasterboard ceiling with some clips at each end to support the fittings. Else where upstairs there won't be insulation as I'm using the current notches so no room for any.

 

[Dan1261]

I'm insulating a long run upstairs purely because I plan on pushing the pipe through from front of house to the back, the insulation will protect the pipe and it will be supported on the plasterboard ceiling with some clips at each end to support the fittings. Else where upstairs there won't be insulation as I'm using the current notches so no room for any.

Correct me if i'm wrong but shouldn't you "ideally" insulate as much of the pipework as possible as it'll cool slightly over long runs. Even using the current notches you can insulate to the notch, then at the other side of the notch up to the next one & so on??

 

[rob_j20]

Correct me if i'm wrong but shouldn't you "ideally" insulate as much of the pipework as possible as it'll cool slightly over long runs. Even using the current notches you can insulate to the notch, then at the other side of the notch up to the next one & so on??

To insulate the pipe would push it down either side of the joist the notches are only just big enough.
Plus it's internal space so not wasted heat.

 

[Dan1261]

To insulate the pipe would push it down either side of the joist the notches are only just big enough.
Plus it's internal space so not wasted heat.

Of course.. Happy days

 

[Agile]

I'm part way through doing this myself, all new system. All my radiators have arrived and i'm in the process of hanging them and running the pipework. Going to run the flow and return uncut along a wall, the boiler will be going on the other side of said wall so the installer can cut into the pipes where ever he chooses.

When sizing your radiators have a read about Delta temperatures and efficiency of a condensing boiler. Basically radiatrs are shown with a delta 50c but thats not ideal for a modern boiler. Done mine to delta 35, so i can run a lower flow temperature while putting the same heat out.

If you are having a professional to fit the boiler then why on earth not ask for his help with the design?

He could then assist you with you radiator temperatures!

 

[rob_j20]

If you are having a professional to fit the boiler then why on earth not ask for his help with the design?

He could then assist you with you radiator temperatures!

I don't need help with the radiator temperatures, or design. I would fit the boiler myself if I was allowed. The only bit I know a limited amount about is regulations regards the flue and I don't have the great for measuring gas pressure drop else I would run the gas myself as well.

Running the pipes like I have allows the installer a bit of movement in the boiler along the wall which will be in the garage, flue going up out of the flat roof.
A washing machine is located along the same wall, so there is a waste for the condense drain.

 

[Agile]

After reading what you said before I think that you do need some help.

As far as gas pressures are concerned it is necessary to calculate pipe sizes first, fit them and then check the actual pressures achieved.

But you seem oblivious of the need to have a flue gas analyser when fitting or repairing boilers!

Hopefully your boiler installer will know what to do.

Tony

 

[rob_j20]

After reading what you said before I think that you do need some help.

As far as gas pressures are concerned it is necessary to calculate pipe sizes first, fit them and then check the actual pressures achieved.

But you seem oblivious of the need to have a flue gas analyser when fitting or repairing boilers!

Hopefully your boiler installer will know what to do.

Tony

I'm a little confused. Are you actually replying to me.
I said I know nothing about flues which is why I'm not fitting a boiler. I also said I don't have the equipment to check gas pressure which is why I'm not running the gas pipe.

I still don't know what I have wrote regards radiator output and system design that makes you think I need help.

I'm genuinely interested incase I have missed something.

 

[Agile]

I was replying to you. Trying to point out that measuring gas pressures is not the only part of fitting boilers.

I also think you need help with the rads but no one should be discussing that with you because it is not your own thread. It is called hijacking.

 

[Dan1261]

I was replying to you. Trying to point out that measuring gas pressures is not the only part of fitting boilers.

I also think you need help with the rads but no one should be discussing that with you because it is not your own thread. It is called hijacking.

Thats fine guys, i'm watching from a far lol.. Any and all advise is taken on board for me also.

 

[rob_j20]

I was replying to you. Trying to point out that measuring gas pressures is not the only part of fitting boilers.

I also think you need help with the rads but no one should be discussing that with you because it is not your own thread. It is called hijacking.

Like Dan says we're both learning from this so please go on. Anything here will help him get the correct rads.

 

[rob_j20]

Of course.. Happy days

Ideally the more insulation the better but indoors doesn't matter. Anywhere unheated needs it and the really thick stuff such as the loft or crawl space. It's a bylaw approval I forget the number.

 

[Steelmasons]

the boiler will be going on the other side of said wall so the installer can cut into the pipes where ever he chooses.

That'll be nice for him.

When sizing your radiators have a read about Delta temperatures and efficiency of a condensing boiler. Basically radiatrs are shown with a delta 50c but thats not ideal for a modern boiler. Done mine to delta 35, so i can run a lower flow temperature while putting the same heat out..

If you have the wall space then go for it...correction factor of 0.630???...that'll be some large radiators..