Concrete gutters leaking - how to fix?

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Have a 1950's semi and it has concrete gutters running parallel with bottom of sloped roof, both front and back of house

Seems it is starting to leak as you can see small orange stain lines under the gutter where the conrete is joined, and also there is a bit of damp at the top f the rooms inside in some places

Whats the best way to fix/ re-seal this please

thanks
 
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You can have them either re-lined or cut off. Apart from leaking they are known to suffer from condensation problems.
 
Liquid Rubber is being used in the industrial sector for this. made by LeFarge (one of world biggest companies), Quite dear at £140 a drum, but goes a long way and needs two 1mm coats. (Brush on ok) WARNING: despite being fairly new in UK, this is used throughout Canada and USA for years. it's 900% flexible and sun/weather proof. I say warning cos most guys on here will have never heard of / used it. Can be done in two coats very quickly..... do and forget.
 
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Tim Gray

Being a master carpenter & Joiner I hope I have been trained the right way in the use and treatment and on going maintenance of timber.

I have been replacing concrete guttering or Flinlock Guttering for some ten years now and I have seen some real bodge ups in my time.

First of all you must work off a safe and secure scaffold and at the correct height. Towers are ok if erected correctly.

The first few rows of tiles have to be removed so you can get access to the concrete guttering.

The correct way to remove the concrete guttering is very gently by Stihl saw and not by chiselling off.

Once the front of the guttering has been safely removed then you can extend the joists by securing them to the original timber joists.

Some companies do not extend the joists far enough which will still transmit the cold through the fascia board and into the remaining concrete that is left in place.

Once the joists have been extended, braces are fitted to each and every joist to provide stability and to level off the soffit boards and fascia boards.

The soffit board which is the bottom board must be ventilated to allow the roof to breath and moisture to escape.

New 16mm or 20mm PVC fascia boards are now secured with 65mm Nails directly to each and every brace.

By securing the PVC fascia board directly to the timber is just like capping and will enhance the rotting process causing future problems but by installing a replacement PVC fascia board you won’t get this problem.

New roofing felt 1,000mm wide can now be installed and an additional row of tiles. If required bird combs can be secured depending on the type of tiles you have.
 
quote: By securing the PVC fascia board directly to the timber is just like capping and will enhance the rotting process causing future problems but by installing a replacement PVC fascia board you won’t get this problem.

sorry if I seem a bit thick . can you explain this a bit better:)
 
do you mean by securing facia to pvc braces that are fixed to rafters will stop cold transfer?
cheers
 
Or keep it simple and get some company to clean out the guttering and line it with a single sheet/ EPDM Rubber membrane.

Simple.
 
Have a 1950's semi and it has concrete gutters running parallel with bottom of sloped roof, both front and back of house

Seems it is starting to leak as you can see small orange stain lines under the gutter where the conrete is joined, and also there is a bit of damp at the top f the rooms inside in some places

Whats the best way to fix/ re-seal this please

thanks

I have these concrete gutters on my bungalow, over the last 30 years ive tried all sorts to seal them.

The solution is to line them with lead. Job done no more leaks, they have been done for 6 yrs now well worth the cost of buying the lead on a roll and doing yourself, but remember safety first when getting on your roof .
 
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Liquid Rubber is being used in the industrial sector for this. made by LeFarge (one of world biggest companies), Quite dear at £140 a drum, but goes a long way and needs two 1mm coats. (Brush on ok) WARNING: despite being fairly new in UK, this is used throughout Canada and USA for years. it's 900% flexible and sun/weather proof. I say warning cos most guys on here will have never heard of / used it. Can be done in two coats very quickly..... do and forget.
WHAT WOULD THE COST OF COVERAGE FOR 2x 30 FEET GUTTERS BE FRONT AND BACK OF HOUSE
 
Hi,
I agree with Timmyjim. Spot on. You don't always have to extend the rafters, you can provide a backboard and insulate over the cut off concrete, costs slightly less. As the work is being done the first row of felt should be replaced and felt support trays installed along with bird combs. Rather than ventilate on the soffits an over fascia vent can be used which will provide ventilation to (10mm continuous for most situations will satisfy building regs and prevent condensation in the loft). Over fascia vents can't be seen as they are hidden by the felt support tray, so the job looks neater.
 

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