Condensation discussion

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Longwinded post ahoy!

I want to start this discussion here, as it’s a topic that crops it’s head up regularly. I have noticed a large portion of posters generally respond with the same advice, ventilate, open windows, don’t dry cloths etc. But that this advice is given so often and the opinion is so strong, that it is done to the exclusion of other causes and solutions (particularly on this forum but also elsewhere).

I feel, and some may find this controversial, adding extra ventilation by opening windows or vents is both correct in most circumstances, but also a deeply flawed sticking plaster solution and only correct due to poor building standards, and it does not deal with the underlying cause, and can cause uncomfortably low temperatures.

Firstly let’s look at the underlying principle of condensation occurring, and that is warmer more humid air, hitting a colder surface (cold air holds less moisture), and let’s look at a number of examples, recommended humidity levels in homes from a number of sources recommend 30-50%, I believe 40c to be reasonably average, my office for example right now is currently 50%.

At 18C, and 40% humidity, a surface needs to be 4c for condensation to occur.
At 21C, and 40% humidity, a surface needs to be 7c for condensation to occur.
At 18C, and 50% humidity, a surface needs to be 7c for condensation to occur.
At 21C, and 50% humidity, a surface needs to be 10c for condensation to occur.

As I type this, the outside air humidity is 80%, I personally consider a 30% humidity in homes to be unrealistic, but would hear views on this.
The basic point I wish to address is that people should consider the surface temperatures of areas where condensation is occurring, before yelling “open your windows”.

If the outside air temperature is near 0-4c, is it unreasonable to assume some surfaces will reach the dew points listed above?

Consider that windows are often of poor quality, or set within brickwork surrounds with no thermal breaks and steel lintels, that wall insulation does often not lap up with roof insulation, leaving corners un-insulated, consider many buildings don’t even have insulation!

All the areas that show up as problems, opening windows does not solve these cold surface areas, it simply lowers the indoor air temperature relative to the wall or window surfaces, so solving condensation but not by solving the underlying cause.


Now, I do understand this is a DIY forum, and so telling people to upgrade insulation or to fix cold bridges rather than open a window may be more “appropriate”. But I saw a thread recently where someone had missing thermal breaks in double glazed windows, that resulted in -2c temperatures inside at the bottom of the frame on cold nights (confirmed later by thermal imaging cameras, it was up norrrth). Even after this was determined, several people still insisted that the problem was a lack of ventilation.

To put this into context, you would need.....

at 35% humidity to stop condensation occurring on a surface at -2c, an indoor temperature no higher than 13C, sod that!
 
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How can you have 80% humidity at 7 degrees outside and 30% humidity inside at 21 degrees? :confused:
 
joe-90 said:
How can you have 80% humidity at 7 degrees outside and 30% humidity inside at 21 degrees? icon_confused.gif

A good question, and I hope I have this right, it involves a bit of physics so beyond me.

Warm air can hold more moisture, and temperature affects air density. So if you take cold air at 80% humidity and heat it, it will contain the same amount of moisture, but more air particles (so less % of moisture, hence relative humidity), it's something to do with oxygen and nitrogen being heavier at different temperatures.

This is why ventilation does have a role, as the warmer air in your house can contain more moisture than the outside, you need to remove excess moisture (emphasis on the excess, remember the dew point figures in my OP).

In regards to ventilation, consider this, a new build house has to achieve 10 air changes an hour or less, some fail to achieve this :eek:

So when older buildings, with poor windows, are having air changes more than several times an hour, and have condensation issues, is the issue lack of ventilation, or simply too many "cold" surfaces due to poor quality buildings?

This is why I think ventilation (excessive) is a sticking plaster solution in some situations, you fix the issue by lowering temperatures relative to surfaces (so removing dew points), not actually removing much moisture.
 
related to another thread, but an example of the "obsession" on ventilation.


Q
If the 'cold spot' theory were true - then why do you not get condensation on your windows? They are inherently colder than your walls.

A
We do a bit on the older aluminium frames but only upstarirs.

It's about surface temperature gradients in relation to relative humidity, the humidity is higher upstairs, but that is not to say it is excessive, as the above indicates a 10% difference in humidity changes the dew point by 3c.

Properly fitted double glazed windows with proper thermal breaks in the frame and extra wall insulation should easily increase those surface temperatures by more than 3c.

As to the 'cold spot' theory, well, take a can of soda out of your fridge, and tell me that opening your window stops condensation on the can forming.
 
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I have noticed a large portion of posters generally respond with the same advice, ventilate, open windows, don’t dry cloths etc.

I think you will find that a majority of the answers given state "insulate & ventilate".

The fact that houses have become better at keeping air in (upvc plastic windows, felted roofs etc) means there has been a recent shift towards condensation related problems. It is not a modern phenomenon by any means but draughty houses (and their lofts) helped keep buildings healthy and mould free.

It is no wonder that a lot of "damp proof specialists" appeared at the same time that houses were being sealed up by modern building practices whilst getting rich from wrongly diagnosed damp issues.
 
I think you will find that a majority of the answers given state "insulate & ventilate".

I would disagree and see most answers are too focused on ventilation and almost ignore or do not understand cold spots/dew points.

But I am speaking broadly and not just posters here, though some do it.

In regards to the UPVC plastic windows and such, yes you are correct, the point is that installing a plastic window, but not upgrading the wall insulation means parts of the wall remain cold, internal temperatures increase and ventilation is reduced, so ventilation is only 1/3rd of the issue.

I read earlier that solid wall houses, with well fitted UPVC windows, still however achieve an average 6-10 air changes an hour.

So I wonder how much ventilation is reducing humidity by, or it if it is more reducing temperatures, and temperature gradients.

is 6-10 air changes an hour is insignificant ventilation?
 
How can you have 80% humidity at 7 degrees outside and 30% humidity inside at 21 degrees? :confused:

Humidity is a relative measurement as warm air can hold more moisture than cold air.

Plucking figures out of the air to demonstrate how it works...

1 litre of water absorbed in air at 5 degrees C may be as much as the air can hold so be at 100% relative humidity (RH).

The relative humidity measurement of air at 30 degrees C holding the same 1 litre of water may be at 25% RH because the air could now actually hold 4 times as much water.

Ventilation has got to me a major part of condensation control. You have to get the water vapour out of the house somehow.

Even if the house is perfectly insulated with no cold spots to lower the RH of the air in the immediate vicinity, without ventilation the amount of water held by the air is just going to go up and up until the the RH hits 100% and it starts raining in the lounge :)
 

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