Confused about Oven and Hob connection

[TonyWarrington]

I am replacing a built in electric oven and gas hob with all electric system.

CU is the older type Wylex with plug in fuses. These have been replaced with MCB's. Currently 3 x 5A, 1 x 15A and 2 x 30 A.

Have narrowed choice of built in oven and hob down to models in the Belling range (cheap but look ok). Information is pretty basic from the manufacturers website as to power requirements. The only information supplied is Fuse type with 32A for the hob and 16A for the oven

Now I am a little confused as to what will be required to connect both units and fuse rating etc. I am aware of diversity (vaguely!) but how it should be applied in these circumstances I am unsure.

1. Is it ok for both units be wired to one switch control (seen 45A rated in TLC)?

2. The current oven is connected to a cooker connection unit under the counter top using 6m twin & earth cable. There is also another connection box which serves the ignition on the gas hob (looks like 1 or 1.5mm cable)
Not sure if the cooker connection box will take another 6mm cable - if this is the case what is the recommended way to connect a hob using the existing supply?

3. Is my assumption that the hob will need to be connected via 6mm cable correct?

4. Any recommendations for this type of install?

5. Should the MCB be uprated?

I appreciate that this work is notifiable and intend to take on the work myself and apply for the required certs. I am hoping that someone here will be able to offer some advice

Thanks in advance
Tony

 

[TonyWarrington]

Bump

Have updated original request hoping someone may care to comment.
Thanks
Tony

 

[Steve]

OK, lets seee . . .

1. go out and buy a GAS HOB. Electric hobs are the work of the devil and SWMBO* will change her mind in a few months. They are awfully slow to respond. All the best cooks use gas. And gas is cheaper.

2. what is the power (wattage/kw) rating of the oven?

3. if the oven does require 16 amps, you're snookered. It needs its own protection. It the oven is under 3kw, this is 13 amps, you can put a plug on it and this will protect it. Put a socket on the cooker circuit after the switch. (16 amps is a euro thing, this is the rating of their circuits as they dont have plug fuses. I bet the oven is 10-13 amps)

4. gas will be much easier to stick to the legals. I bet you know a corgi reg plumb, who will change it for you. If you start messing with the electrics you will need to nofity the building control and pay their fee (£60+) Direct swaps not notifiable.

*SWMBO = She Who Must Be Obeyed

 

[TonyWarrington]

Crafty
Agree with what you say about Gas Hobs. However SWMBO is my daughter who does not like gas does not think it is safe (try explaining you can smell gas but not elec!). Another factor is the existing gas hob is too close to a kitchen cupboard - neither can be moved.

Cannot find the power rating for the oven or the hob (incl mnfctr web site and store enquiry!) I suspect it is under 3Kw for the oven. Not a clue what the hob is! Tomorrow intend to storm the store and pull the b****y oven and hob out to see what it says on the manufacturers label!!!- or ask for the damn manual.
Just in case anyone has or can point me in the right direction for power ratings the units are:
Belling XOU60MF single oven
Belling CRS60 ceramic hob.

So I would still like to cable both oven and hob together if possible and of course safe to do so.

I believe that maximum load for the 30A MCB would be 7.2Kw therefore as long as the combined rating of the oven and hob is ideally under this should be ok. If the combined power rating is above this then my question is, is it ok/safe to up the MCB? to say 45A bearing in mind the cable size.

Under different circumstances I would take the easier option that you outlined

Thanks
Tony

 

[Steve]

You're correct at 7.2kw. However, fuses exist to protect the cable, so dont uprate the fuse. You may find you cant get a higher rated fuse/MCB in that consumer unit anyway.

Wire the electric hob straight to the cooker outlet point. Then install a single 3 pin socket, also from the cooker outlet, for the oven. Preferably all in 4mm cable or 6mm if you can manage it for these short runs.

(The socket exists to protect the oven at 13 amps, you may use a fused outlet plate instead)

 

[TonyWarrington]

Thanks Crafty
Your advice much appreciated. Will follow your suggestions.

Could not believe my luck today met the guy next door also working for his daughter - would you believe it he is a trainer for gas fitters at local college. He was kind enough to offer to disconnect the old gas hob - would not accept any payment either - my type of people . Still will get him a few bottles of wine for his help. So you were right again I did know a corgi registered guy without knowing it

Cheers
Tony

 

[TonyWarrington]

Sorry but have to ask another question which may make me sound dumb (still better to appear dumb and keep to safe practice)

Taking the suggestion made by Crafty I intend to use the existing cooker switch to control the new oven and ceramic hob. Due to the existing install of cable being behind a tiled wall and the fact that the switch will not take 2 x 6mm cable I wondered if the following idea would be acceptable (would prefer not to have to remove the tiles etc just to enlarge the space for additional cable):

1. Existing oven connected to Cooker switch via 6mm cable to outlet plate under counter top.

2. Change the cooker outlet plate to one able to accept 2x 4mm cables plus the incoming 6mm. Then run 1 4mm cable direct to the hob and the second 4mm cable to the oven via a 13A fused spur.

Due to the fact that the main power cable is 6mm and the intention is to then split of to 2 x 4mm I was wondering if this acceptable