connecting toilet to the sewer ? help greatly appreciated

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Hello,

Over the summer, I am going to build a single storey extension which would include a small bathroom.
I would be very grateful for some advice about how to connect the toilet to the sewer ?
I have uploaded a diagram showing its position in relation to the new extension.

I have checked with Building Control and it is a private sewer.
It is a brick built manhole, 1930s house.
The depth of the manhole is 1.3m to the invert.
Also, in the bathroom would I fit a Durgo?
I will be getting a plumber in to fit the bathroom . I wanted to
get the sewage pipe , in the bathroom , in the correct position.
I don't know too much about sewers, except that they smell
a bit off sometimes. :(

Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks.



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I wanted to
get the sewage pipe , in the bathroom , in the correct position.
Would it not be simpler to have an external SVP or stub stack rather than all that tunneling? Is there an SVP anywhere else on the property?

B.C. may even let you get away with a 'y' junction on the short bit of pipe between the I.C. and the house, although this is a bit tricky and potentially disastrous if not done carefully/thoughtfully.

The proximity to the chamber means that the junction could be rodded. however, 510mm is not a lot of pipe to work with particularly if summat goes wrong.

What else enters the I.C? Surely it is not just a simple through channel as there would be no point??
 
As above, you shouldn't be bringing the pipe up into the bathroom.

You can connect a short external stub stack direct to the chamber, if the run is less than 5m. You also connect the other wastes to that, on the outside.

You don't need a durgo valve for what you're doing.

If you don't know much about sewers other than that they smell, you should research properly and think carefully if you do this yourself.
 
Thanks for the swift replies tony and noseall .
Sorry about my miserable attempt at a little humour.
I have an external cast-iron SVP on the house that joins the IC as
shown on new diagram.
The stub-stack would have water from a shower going into it,is that
allowed ?
Thanks again.


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I cannot say thanks again, but thanks.
So , i should be able dig out and concrete the footings .
Then sort out the stubby, as everything to do with the
foul waste,is outside the extension.
While digging out the footings ,could i also dig out the trench
for the pipes from stubby ,to where i break into man-hole?
Just to make it easier,as i would not have a digger for long.
Cheers
 
It may be wise to deal with the drain connection whilst you are excavating then fit shuttering to protect the pipes before you pour.

Are you aware that the foundations will need to be dug below the pipe invert, where said foundations are in close proximity to the pipe?
 
Yes thanks noseall ,
I have read about using concrete lintels, compressible materials.
I had two things that had me totally stumped, with the extension.
One was the roof ,which tony sorted out.
Secondly connecting the toilet to manhole.
I thought ,my waste is flowing in the wrong direction.
External SVP would not go too well on a single storey extension .
Plus I read on , http://www.draindomain.com/soil vent pipe.html

"The image to the right shows a sub stack that serves a toilet only, if a waste pipe from a hand basin was connected to the pipe work an air admittance valve would be required inside the property. We do find air admittance valves fitted externally but they are prone to failing during heavy frosts and freezing weather and it is not generally recommended."

That is where i got my Durgo idea from.
You and tony have been a great help,if you have anything to add,
that would be great .
 
"The image to the right shows a sub stack that serves a toilet only, if a waste pipe from a hand basin was connected to the pipe work an air admittance valve would be required inside the property. We do find air admittance valves fitted externally but they are prone to failing during heavy frosts and freezing weather and it is not generally recommended."

That's nonsense - you wouldn't need an air admittance valve in that situation. There are traps which prevent the water being siphoned away.
 

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