cooker and oven wiring

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my built in homark oven and worktop hob unit seem to have two sets of wiring
the cooker top is wired via the wall mounted cooker unit
the oven seems to be direct wired to the mains fuse
is this right...
i would prefer both to be able to be switched off at the wall unit
the oven is rated at 2.5Kw..10 amps say
the hob unit must be the same..
any advice appreciated
ps the oven and hob must be around 12-16 years old so if i do an upgrade to a new oven and faster hob...the present one is the solid elements and take ages to heat up and worse still to cool down.
i want to get the wiring right.
yours
mrcrow
 
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hobs are generally significantly higher power than ovens
im not sure what you mean by direct to the main fuse can you provide labeled photos of your current setup?
 
plugwash said:
hobs are generally significantly higher power than ovens
im not sure what you mean by direct to the main fuse can you provide labeled photos of your current setup?
sorry unable to do this yet...
i assumed if the consumer unit on the wall switched the hob on and off
but not the oven.
then the oven must be wired to the power circuits...what i called the mains..without any other isolation except the fuse box..
pardon the lack of correct phraseology, plugwash :)

this house is old (40 years) and the mains box is 4 or 6 fuses in a big steel casing with locked on switch for the cover
i killed the main sweb (or whoever) switch just to look inside and saw this...not like my last house with pretty little maids in a row..CB's

my question really was should the oven also be on the consumer units switching...so it can be seen to be off...or is it correct as it is.
once i left it on and didnt know because the temp stat light was out..silly me.

if i get to switching off the power again for whatever reason i will check the oven wiring run by pulling power circuit fuses and the process of deduction...there must be 1 lights 2 power and 1 for the consumer unit...i dont have an electrical shower and the immerser has been taken out.

more later as i have to get on with the painting...mrscrow is standing just behind me...

badidea.gif
 
mrcrow said:
i assumed if the consumer unit on the wall switched the hob on and off but not the oven.
I take it you mean the Cooker Control Unit (CCU), not the Consumer Unit...

then the oven must be wired to the power circuits...what i called the mains..without any other isolation except the fuse box..
Do you mean the same circuit as the sockets? But wherever, no means of local isolation is a Bad Thing™.

pardon the lack of correct phraseology, plugwash :)
The problem is that it gets a lot harder for people to understand what you're saying, and to give you information without potentially dangerous confusion if you get your terminology wrong...

this house is old (40 years) and the mains box is 4 or 6 fuses in a big steel casing with locked on switch for the cover
i killed the main sweb (or whoever) switch just to look inside and saw this...not like my last house with pretty little maids in a row..CB's
Do you have any idea what the house wiring is like? i.e. what sort of cables, what condition, does the lighting circuit have an earth, what's the main and supplementary bonding like....?

my question really was should the oven also be on the consumer units switching...so it can be seen to be off...or is it correct as it is.
once i left it on and didnt know because the temp stat light was out..silly me.
Often the easiest way is to have the hob on the CCU output, and the oven plugged into the socket on the CCU.

more later as i have to get on with the painting...mrscrow is standing just behind me...
You might want to hold off on that until you have the wiring inspected. A full rewire could bügger up the decoration....
aaa.gif
 
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yes a ccu unit...sorry®
i plan to do some investigation as to the wiring
not sure if this house is a ring main
the fusebox has 4 fuses marked
1 at 5
3 at 19
if i knew what i was talking about i would probably know all the answers
:oops:
and not need to post here...
as for bonding...you lost me...
i wire things with a live neutral and earth..if there is an earth terminal
the oven i still haven't sussed as to its source regarding circuitry but i dont see any form of isolation and it will work without the socket on the CCU :confused: being switched on..
thanks for the help so far..
ps all the wires seem to be grey pvc behind the scenes
yours
mrcrow
 
mrcrow said:
yes a ccu unit...sorry®
i plan to do some investigation as to the wiring
not sure if this house is a ring main
the fusebox has 4 fuses marked
1 at 5
3 at 19
19???

as for bonding...you lost me...
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Book/5.4.3.htm
http://www.kevinboone.com/PF_cableselection_web.html (Section 2)
http://www.diydick.com/Electrics/electrical-content-pages/earthing.htm

Also, the IEE On-Site Guide, which is an essential book that you should purchase asap, has diagrams and explanations.

i wire things with a live neutral and earth..if there is an earth terminal
What if there's no earth wire?
What do you do with the earth wires if there's no earth terminal?

the oven i still haven't sussed as to its source regarding circuitry but i dont see any form of isolation and it will work without the socket on the CCU :confused: being switched on..
You need to find out how and where the cooker is wired, as a matter of urgency.

all the wires seem to be grey pvc behind the scenes
Probably OK then. Stranded or solid cores?
 
ban-all-sheds said:
Also, the IEE On-Site Guide, which is an essential book that you should purchase asap.

BAS, that is the third time recently that you have plugged the OSG - are the IEE paying you commission? ;)

Seriously, it is a good book. Available from your library :p
--
Michael
 
Sadly, no.

I don't even think they're going to send me a freebie, so I suppose I should replace my blue one...
 
="ban-all-sheds...19???
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Book/5.4.3.htm
http://www.kevinboone.com/PF_cableselection_web.html (Section 2)
http://www.diydick.com/Electrics/electrical-content-pages/earthing.htm
What if there's no earth wire?
What do you do with the earth wires if there's no earth terminal?

You need to find out how and where the cooker is wired, as a matter of urgency.

Probably OK then. Stranded or solid cores?

the 19 is on the fuse wire holder body

thanks for the bonding data..hope i can decipher it

if there is no earth wire..as on my lawn mower..
if an item needs an earth i think i may need to use a cable to suit...i havent yet ran a separate earth but i have heard you can use the metal conduit...or the lead casing... :D :D
if there is an earth wire and no terminal i sleeve it with the green and yellow stuff...to stop it touching the others..after cutting it back to the outer.

yes the cooker/oven...this is what i really need to address soon..as per the oven being on and not knowing it if the temp light is off...hence my original post...the hob is switched via the CCU!!

when i get to taking off a socket i can check if the wires are stranded or solid cores...got a feeling they will be stranded..my son's house has stranded and his is about the same age..did a replacement shower isolation switch for him and remember having to spiral them tight to get them into the terminals..

next question... :D

cheers mate
 
mrcrow said:
the 19 is on the fuse wire holder body
New one on me.

thanks for the bonding data..hope i can decipher it

i have heard you can use the metal conduit...or the lead casing... :D :D
ha ha

if there is an earth wire and no terminal i sleeve it with the green and yellow stuff...to stop it touching the others..after cutting it back to the outer.
Bad boy - what if you or someone else needs the earth later? Sleeving and choc-block.

when i get to taking off a socket i can check if the wires are stranded or solid cores...got a feeling they will be stranded..my son's house has stranded and his is about the same age..did a replacement shower isolation switch for him and remember having to spiral them tight to get them into the terminals..
Shower cables are always stranded - it's only 2.5mm² and under which are now solid.

If your ring mains or lighting circuit cables are stranded then report back - IIRC they have a slightly lower current rating and a thinner cpc (earth wire) which means their design limits are different to solid core cables.
 
thanks BAS
will be getting round to these jobs fairly soon
didnt know about the sleeve and choc block thing, sounds sensible...thanks
massive apologies for the 19a silly billy information
here are my fuse wire holders...
fuses2.gif

there are 2 5amps and 2 30amps
the 30's have respectively...1 wire out..assume the CCU :)
and 3 wires out...the ring or radial circuits for power...and hopefully one is dedicated for the oven supply...
i assume the 2 5amps are strictly lighting....:(

thumbsup.gif
 
Never assume - people have died that way.

Should be easy enough to check what stops working when you pull each fuse (and disconnect the circuits for the fuse which has 3 conductors).

What size(s) are all the cables?
 

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