Cooker hood

[Cjohnstone87]

Hi all, new to this forum as a member but it has helped me out alot without needing to post. This time I'm slightly stumped!

I am fitting a cooker hood and will wire direct into a junction box hidden behind the hoods chimney. It will then be wired horizontal along and then vertical down above a twin socket to keep within routing regulations.

I know this has to be wired into a 3a fcu.

So my question is, could I use a cooker switch with a socket and use a 3a fuse? This way I could just replace the existing twin socket plate instead of having to try and cut out a tidy square in the tiles or put a new 3a fcu in a cupboard.

Hopefully I have worded this correctly and can be understood haha!

Thanks in advance for any input.

 

[Chri5]

Why no have the fused spur at the junction between horizontal and vertical cable?

There isn't a rule saying a fused spur MUST be a certain height., and I'd assume that is above the splash back tile line.

 

[Cjohnstone87]

Then to access the switch I'd have to remove the chimney? The hood specifications say the switch must be easily accessible.

If this is not the case I could easily just fit a spurred fcu off of the twin socket.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

The switch needs to be easily accessible as do any junction made, so putting a standard junction box in to joint cables would also be against regulation.
Use a MF (maintenance free one)

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

.
So my question is, could I use a cooker switch with a socket and use a 3a fuse? This way I could just replace the existing twin socket plate instead of having to try and cut out a tidy square in the tiles or put a new 3a fcu in a cupboard.

That's possible, have you RCD protection at the board as it's likely the additional cable if buried will require this.

 

[Cjohnstone87]

.
So my question is, could I use a cooker switch with a socket and use a 3a fuse? This way I could just replace the existing twin socket plate instead of having to try and cut out a tidy square in the tiles or put a new 3a fcu in a cupboard.

That's possible, have you RCD protection at the board as it's likely the additional cable if buried will require this.

By at the board do you mean my fuse box? I'm sure it does, house was only built 2 years ago.

Does behind plasterboard count as buried?

I'm a qualified electronic tech so know my way around wiring. Just the electrical lingo i occasionally struggle with haha

 

[Cjohnstone87]

Ok, everywhere I look I find people installing these hoods in a standard junction box behind the chimney and then wired into an fcu.

So all I need to find out is if I can replace the twin socket plate with a cooker switch and socket or if I have to increase the size of the hole and wire in a single socket and single fcu which will then be spurred off to the cooker hood junction box behind the chimney.

 

[Taylortwocities]

So all I need to find out is if I can replace the twin socket plate with a cooker switch and socket or if I have to increase the size of the hole and wire in a single socket and single fcu which will then be spurred off to the cooker hood junction box behind the chimney.

The twin socket will probably be a part of a ring final circuit. What is the point of replacing this with a cooker switch with a socket? You would have to plug the extractor fan into the socket and that would look awful.

And a cooker switch is not meant to be installed in a ring final, it is meant to be on the end of a, radial, cooker circuit,

 

[Scoby_Beasley]

I personally think a picture of what you are attempting may help.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

.
By at the board do you mean my fuse box? I'm sure it does, house was only built 2 years ago.

Check it out, the year of the build doesn't not mean that this circuit has RCD protection, best method at RCCB or RBCO press test button, if circuit loses power, then RCD protected it is.

.
Does behind plasterboard count as buried?

Indeed it does.

I'm a qualified electronic tech so know my way around wiring. Just the electrical lingo i occasionally struggle with haha

You'll get over it

 

[Cjohnstone87]

So all I need to find out is if I can replace the twin socket plate with a cooker switch and socket or if I have to increase the size of the hole and wire in a single socket and single fcu which will then be spurred off to the cooker hood junction box behind the chimney.

The twin socket will probably be a part of a ring final circuit. What is the point of replacing this with a cooker switch with a socket? You would have to plug the extractor fan into the socket and that would look awful.

And a cooker switch is not meant to be installed in a ring final, it is meant to be on the end of a, radial, cooker circuit,

Ok! Thanks for that!

So the best thing to do in that case would be to install a 154mm dual flush box and then fit a single 3a fcu and a single socket.

Previous socket
Single socket
3a fcu ----------spur------> cooker hood junction box
Next socket


(Wired as above, if Understandable!l)

 

[Chri5]

YOU mentioned horizontal and then vertical cabling.

Please explain why you can't runa spur via the double socket vertically to a fused spur and then horizontally to the motor fan area of the cooker hood?

Like this one?

Untitled

• Chri5
• 23 Feb 2011
• 1

 

[Cjohnstone87]

YOU mentioned horizontal and then vertical cabling.

Please explain why you can't runa spur via the double socket vertically to a fused spur and then horizontally to the motor fan area of the cooker hood?

Like this one?

Untitled

• Chri5
• 23 Feb 2011
• 1

That's what I was looking at initially but the problem is above the double socket is a cupboard and the fcu would be above it.

Ideally I'd like to have it in line with the rest of the sockets if possible.

Otherwise it will be done like you have said above but the fcu will be inside a cupboard.

 

[Cjohnstone87]

This is the dual box I mentioned earlier which would allow me to fit both a single socket and fcu in place of the double socket. Just need to make the hole slightly larger.[/img]

 

[Taylortwocities]

You can do that,

alternatively. make the hole larger still, keep the double socket and add an FCU next to it.

Alternatively (as mentioned above) just spur off the socket to the FCU that can be located elsewhere (above the wall cupboard?) then cable to the fan itself.

EDIT. Beware with those dual boxes. They are fine with regular plastic accessories. However, many of the metal switches and sockets are wider so the spacing is wrong.