Cooker move

[johnad]

I need to move my cooker due to a new kitchen layout
The old cooker point is fed by 6mm t+e I need to extend this across the kitchen to the new location.
The new oven and hob both all electric plug in to a 13a socket
Can I extend from the 6mm in 2.5 to a twin socket to feed the oven/hob
Or do I extend in 6mm then what ? As I need two sockets will I get 6mm in a twin socket ?

 

[ericmark]

First I would suggest you don't do the work as the LABC charges make it uneconomic to DIY electrics in a kitchen. Read about Part P for more info.

As to cable size to change one needs a overload of some type so to change from 6mm to 2.5mm would need a FCU at the point of change.

Second although there are some specials most hobs use more than 13A.

 

[riveralt]

As to cable size to change one needs a overload of some type so to change from 6mm to 2.5mm would need a FCU at the point of change.

Or change the MCB to 20Amps.

Second although there are some specials most hobs use more than 13A.

Only single or small dual plate hobs I have come across require 13Amp plug - the majority of hobs require their own circuit.

 

[Diyisfun]

I need to move my cooker due to a new kitchen layout
The old cooker point is fed by 6mm t+e I need to extend this across the kitchen to the new location.
The new oven and hob both all electric plug in to a 13a socket
Can I extend from the 6mm in 2.5 to a twin socket to feed the oven/hob
Or do I extend in 6mm then what ? As I need two sockets will I get 6mm in a twin socket ?

Are you certain its on a 13amp plug?

 

[sparkwright]

Are you certain these appliances plug into 13 amp sockets?

What are the ratings of both appliances in kW?

If they really are to be plugged into 13 amp sockets you should extend the wiring in 6 mm2, and not 2.5.

This will ensure that if the fuse or MCB is 30 or 32 amp you won't have to change it.

Also by using 6 mm2 it will ensure that if you should change the cooker again you will have a large enough cable all ready.

 

[sparkwright]

Are you certain these appliances plug into 13 amp sockets?

What are the ratings of both appliances in kW?

WELL?

 

[johnad]

Thanks for all your comments
I was told that they plug in by the guy in the kitchen department when I ordered the kitchen I'm still waiting for it to be delivered so I can check the total kw.
So my best option looks like to get a big joint box extend the cable to the new location and refit the cooker switch that also has a socket on it,
Then I can connect the hob directly into the connection unit and use the plug for the oven ?
I have looked at the normal 30a joint box and it is a bit tight for two 6mm cables ? I remember seeing a square joint box that I assume is better suited and will look better as it will be seen.
( it is fed by a 32a mcb with a rcd protected unit).

 

[Taylortwocities]

If you use a joint box with screw connections it must be accessible, so don't think of buryig it the wall or hiding it in the ceiling.

The proper method is to use the correct size of crimp/compression connectors and for the joint to be covered with heatshrink sleeving.

This work is NOTIFIABLE under Building Regulations Part P. It would be better for you to use a registered electrician. He will have the correct equipment and will take care of the legal stuff for you.

Re

I was told that they plug in by the guy in the kitchen department when I ordered the kitchen I'm still waiting for it to be delivered so I can check the total kw.

Ignore shop assistants, they know the square root of diddly about anything. Look up the make and model numbers on the web (or post it here) and we can advise further.

This needs planning properly.

 

[ericmark]

As to cable size to change one needs a overload of some type so to change from 6mm to 2.5mm would need a FCU at the point of change.

Or change the MCB to 20Amps.

Although this may work it will not comply with 433.2.1 Except where Regulation 433.2.2 or 433.3 applies, a device for protection against overload shall be installed at the point where a reduction occurs in the value of the current-carrying capacity of the conductors of the installation. Which in turn could cause problems in getting the completion certificate.

Second although there are some specials most hobs use more than 13A.

Only single or small dual plate hobs I have come across require 13Amp plug - the majority of hobs require their own circuit.

Some of Siemens range allows them to be configured for different supply's so can be used on a 13A supply. This is why I said there are some specials. The domino type are also normally only needing a 13A supply normally used so one can mix electric and gas hob features.

As to "plug in" yes I have fitted 32A and 63A plugs both single and three phase to kitchen equipment. But this is not the normally way to install domestic equipment. The normal would be a local isolator supplying a cooker connection unit. From this the hob would be directly connected and often the oven would be fused down with a fused connection unit both which could be mounted in a duel (not double) back box.

The work will need to be registered with LABC to do this DIY is expensive and not really worth while. Far better to use an electrician who is a member of a scheme so can register the work far cheaper.

Because it will be inspected one can't take short cuts even if they would be safe. I would agree that a 6mm cable reducing to a 2.5mm cable protected by a 20A fuse would not cause a problem as it stands. But it would not comply mainly I think as some one in the future may not realise there is some 2.5mm cable and could up-grade the protective device back to 32A.

 

[johnad]

Ok the oven is a plug in one .
The hob is ceramic so will need a dedicated supply (not sure of the loading yet).
I can easly replace the cable complete as its only run on the surface.
So eliminating the need for a joint box.
At the cooker end will a combined cooker point with socket be suitable ?
Will 6mm t+e be enough to take to load ( yes I know I don't know the kw of the hob yet) just looking for a guide or will it be better in 10mm.
And out of intrest if I leave the oven / hob in the old location and just connect to the existing point is this still notifiable work ?

 

[sparkwright]

Some 30 amp junction boxes specify on the back that cable no greater than 4 mm may be used.

They do a 60 amp junction box, Click/Scolmore do them.

You could use suitable connector blocks in a pattress with blanking plate.

Use 6 mm2 cable in case you have a more powerful cooker.

 

[Taylortwocities]

Use 6 mm2 cable in case you have a more powerful cooker.

Didn't you mean "Use 10mm² cable in case you have a more powerful cooker." ?

 

[sparkwright]

Use 6 mm2 cable in case you have a more powerful cooker.

Didn't you mean "Use 10mm² cable in case you have a more powerful cooker." ?

No, because the cable he is joining onto is 6 mm2.

By more powerful cooker I mean something bigger than the plug in oven and plug in hob he thinks he's having.

 

[Taylortwocities]

But he said

I can easly replace the cable complete as its only run on the surface.
So eliminating the need for a joint box.

So I took that to mean the whole circuit could be replaced. Hence 10mm².
Anyway, I'm busy putting out mince pies and sherry for Santa.

Xmas cheers

TTC

 

[ericmark]

To comply with regulations you either do it the easy way.
Get a scheme registered electrician.
Or the hard way.
1) Design the system which you seem to have a problem in understanding 433.2.1 and are still asking about cable sizes.
2) Submit the design to LABC and pay their fees.
3) Install the system.
4) Test the system this will require special test kit costs approx £750 to buy or £75 to hire.
5) Submit results to LABC.
The LABC can re-test to confirm your results and once satisfied will issue a completion certificate.
Once the LABC is involved you must of course follow all the rules. So you will need to down load part P, M, and F to ensure compliance. Plus electricial regulations.
I am not saying don't DIY but be aware it's not just stick in the wires and that's it.