Cooker socket

[hulahoop09]

Hiya

I am confused. We have a built in oven and hob. Above our sideboard is a cooker flick.switch which we have to flick on to use our oven or hob. Our oven has broken so I have ordered a new one which requires hard wiring. Behind our current oven we have a black circular junction box with a grey 6mm wire ftom wall to box, grey 6mm wire from hob to box and then the oven wire to the box. Inside the box is like a plug whereby each of the wires have an earth, live and neutral wire. I was looking at getting a beko oif22300 but instead am gettin the oif21300. Owners of the oven i was going to get keep mentioning about getting a double socket 13amp installed to run the oven and hob seperately. Is this necessary or can the set up we have now be used, its is all in good condition etc. The junction box is 250v 30amp. Our current oven is 2.4kw but our new one is 2.3kw.

Thanks!

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

The oven you are purchasing OIF21300 only requires a 13Amp supply current, looking at the instructions it mentions the use of an earthed socket but does not mention neither hard wiring or whether plug is fitted to the flex.
Troubleshooting suggests it is hard wired, as they refer to mains fuse if no power.
What output rating is the hob?
What protective device is on the circuit at current?
I don't see how installing an isolator with a 13A socket on it will change what you already have, unless the suggestion was made that the hob is plugged in to it, but if it's an electric hob, I doubt that a 13A supply would be large enough.
The best method would be to go with your existing set up. I would consider securely fixed outlet plates, rather than junction boxes behind the oven.

 

[hulahoop09]

Thanks I did find information stating it needed hardwiring like the 22300, will try find the link.

- I am not sure what current the hob is, the manual I have states 230v 50hz 5kw (not sure if any of that suggests. Lol)

- What do you mean by protective device on the circuit at current? Is there a way I can check this. At the moment I have the trip switch completely switched off and have done since I broke the knob on friday. Lol.

- I think at the moment I need to stick with the junction as dont have funds to get changed (any ideas on cost?), also I struggle to trust some electricians and wouldnt know where to find a genuine one who wouldnt do a bodge job and rip us off as I am very paranoid. Lol.

- Where would fixed outlet plates be situated if we were to have them done and what do they look like?

Would you say the junction box is a suitable way until we can get it changed?

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

If the junction box is in a position where it is easily accessible, for inspection and testing and you don't have the funds to install an outlet plate for oven and hob. You should be okay to continue with what you have. They are installed like a wall socket, you can isolate via isolation switch and you can feed both oven and hob from a dual plate. Normally installed at the back of the appliance housing.

A protective device is the fuse/MCB/RCBO that is protecting the cable of the circuit, normally found at your fuse box/CU, they are rated in amps.

5kW hob would rated at at 21.8A

Kitchens come under special installations and electrical work in them should be notified to building controls. The cheapest way to have any fixed installation done in a special installation area, would be by using an electrician that can self certify their work, they are know as competent persons
Normally word of mouth would be the ideal way to source a good electrician, as they will have done work for others who have been happy with their work.
If not look on the scheme providers web site you can find a link to these on the competent persons website, click on say ELECSA
You will see a tab with Find Contractor click on it. You can then check the box for Part P Approved Contractors, enter your location or post code and approved part p electricians in your area will be listed.

 

[hulahoop09]

So does that mean when my dad fits the oven we need to notify someone a new oven has been put in?!!!

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

So does that mean when my dad fits the oven we need to notify someone a new oven has been put in?!!!

No, installing an oven is not notifiable, you can install electrical equipment providing the circuit is suitable for the equipment installed.
If you install new circuits, breakers/fuses, RCDs or alter circuits in special locations then that is notifiable.

 

[xr4x4]

If the circuit is, say 6mm on a 30 amp fuse and a 13amp oven is wired directly to this...shouldn't it have a 13 amp fuse? Ie a fcu.

As it's unlikey the oven cable will draw 30 amps safely.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

The technical data on this item offered by Beko, is not very good.
Logic would say that the flex provided to this item, could well carry less current than the installed circuit and the rating of the installed protective device could be too high.
The Technical Data states min 13A fuse

 

[hulahoop09]

Olay I am confused now. Lol. When I have looked at some sites re installation ot states hard wiring required.

What will happen if the new oven is connected and wrong amp etc? I know our current oven is a 2.4kw and new one is 2.3kw. How do I find out amp of old oven? Is it safe to swap wire from old oven to new one? The wire on old one is a black.approx 2.5mm..xx

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

Normally you would follow the manufacturers instruction.
In this case the manufactures instruction are for the want of a better word crap!
Your old oven had an output of 2.4kW this is divided by the supply voltage to calculate the current required.
Supply voltage is nominal at 230V, so 2400/230= 10.4A
Your new oven is nearly the same.
Your 2.5 multi-core flex will carry a maximum of 27A.
Your protective device for the circuit is 30A, a little bit too big for 27A flex.
Your cooker only needs a 13A supply.
Your hob needs 21.74 maximum demand.
Needs a bit of tweeking

 

[hulahoop09]

Bit of tweeking? Lol.

The junction box is what says 30amp 250v. Do i need to check.the fuse in the main boc/consumer unit to see what that is? So our old oven was running on.this set up anyway soif the 30amp was too much we havent had any problems until i managed to break the knob so should the new one be okay on this for now? I just dont want to connect the new oven up, blow and break it! Lol. Hubby would not be happy!!

 

[EFLImpudence]

If the circuit is, say 6mm on a 30 amp fuse and a 13amp oven is wired directly to this...shouldn't it have a 13 amp fuse? Ie a fcu.

On a DIY forum I would always say yes but there are other considerations.

As it's unlikey the oven cable will draw 30 amps safely.

The oven cable won't be overloaded because the oven is a fixed load.

 

[hulahoop09]

Thanks eflimpudence. Thats good to know.

 

[xr4x4]

The oven cable won't be overloaded because the oven is a fixed load.

But isnt that a but like saying no appliance needs a fuse? As it's a fixed load?

 

[EFLImpudence]

If certain conditions are met regarding fault current it is allowed.

It's like a 2.5mm² spur on a 32A circuit.