Cooker switch

[swampydrill]

The cooker isolation switch is mounted above the hob so i need to move it. The cable is not long enough to take below the wall units and too the side. thinking of installing a junction box above the extractor fan, then run new cable down the wall to where the isolation switch will go which is to the side of the hob by 12". Firstly, is this ok to do, secondly is a 45 amp junction box sufficient, want to get all this run b4 sparky wires it up for me, it was he who mentioned about the JB, i'm just wanting a bit of clarity, obviously it would be best to have new cable but does not look very easy

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

If you use the existing cooker switch location as a junction/joint box and then blank it off, providing you install cables within the permitted safe zones. Then you electrician can take it from there. But I personally would ask the guy you have in line to complete the work, rather than ask us!

 

[industryspark]

45A JB more than adequate.

If you wanted to get rid of an unsightly JB......could cable be joined under the floorboards above the litchen in a maintenance free JB and dropped down to the switch? What you propose is fine however. Just remember the importance of cable zones and how accessories help identify these.

 

[swampydrill]

I have asked 2 electricians, one said to move the current cooker isolater switch to the inside of a kitchen wall unit, i don't like that idea as i think it should be readily available and i can just imagine 16 tins of baked beans sitting in front of the switch when you need to use it. The other sparky suggested fitting a JB higher up due to the lack of cable, then run a new cable down to the isolator which will be located to the side of the hob. If i had just asked the first guy then i would have to assume he is correct, sometimes good to get other ideas, some smart people out there.

 

[industryspark]

If you can live with the JB being in sight then its the way to go.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

I think if you posted some pictures it would be better for us to access the situation.

But my advise would be get an electrician to do the work, so safe zones are complied with and also that of RCD protection for any newly buried cable (if none present?)

 

[swampydrill]

I cut a couple of holes near the ceiling and confirmed the cable went straight through a small conduit in the concrete ceiling. Will bring the cable out just above the extractor fan and fit a 32A JB. From the JB i plan on running a 6mm cable down the cavity, behind the wall unit and then fit it to a cooker isolator situated to the left of the the hob by minimum 300mm and below the wall unit, cable will then come out of the isolator and go to the connection box for the hob. For sure the sparky will do the wiring.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

You have more or less a blank canvass to work with, the walls are plasterboard and will be easy to cut/chase into. There is no need to botch this job up. And in hindsight, really the provisions for the oven/hob should have been made prior to kitchen units being fitted.

 

[swampydrill]

Thanks for that, for sure they should have been done, a stupid overlook as some electrics had been moved.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

You also have a surface mounted socket gang (ugly), that would be considered too close to the edge of the hob. Guidance would suggest it was moved to at least 300mm horizontally from edge of hob.

 

[winston1]

From the JB i plan on running a 6mm cable down the cavity,

Cables are not supposed to be run in the cavity.

 

[swampydrill]

Good info, thanks. I weren't planning on having the cooker cable tied back into the isolator switch, when i run the new 6mm cable to the isolator, then to the hob connection point, is there a connection box i can buy where i can have the 6mm as the feed into the box, then have 2 6mm cables coming out to the hob and the cooker, that way both are linked back to the cooker isolator

 

[deadshort]

Hi, yes you can buy a dual outlet plate try TLC electrical.

DS

 

[securespark]

Cables are not supposed to be run in the cavity.

Tell me more, troll...

 

[winston1]

Tell me more

What more do you want to know?

Cables in the cavity can be damaged by metal couplings in there. They can overheat due to foam insulation in there.

Plenty of info re this on these forums if you care to look.

If you are really a spark you should know this!!